Jay---It would seem that most all of us have gone thru this clutch
disengagement dilema at one time or another. However yours is off so
much that I'd look for something like maybe the Slave Cylinder is bolted
to the wrong side of the bracket, making the reach to the shaft (3-holed
arm) impossible without the piston popping out. Could this be your case?
Adjustable rods do little to solve the problem, as our SC's are
hydraulic, meaning they adjust themselves when play is in the linkage
downstream of the SC. (Check out my tech article in the 6 PACK
Newsletter, Winter 2000, for details.)
Yes, to get a proper bleed the nipple should be uppermost to get all of
the air out. While your symptoms suggest there is more to it than some
trapped air, you should turn the cylinder as necessary to do this job.
It's very unlikely that the clutch (three holed) arm has detached from
the shaft that it operates. (One owner reported to have purchased a
misassembled one from Moss Motors, describing symptoms such as yours.)
However, if the fork pin inside breaks in just the right place, it can
make the dis/engagement operation spongy, or complete failure of the
system in some cases. Usually when the pin breaks the 3 holed arm will
not turn to a vertical position when the clutch is engaged. You should
check this also.
In regards to the pilot bushing, I've always believed that it should be
able to turn behind the flywheel, as a floating bearing. It's duty is to
support the transmission input shaft, and it can do this even as it
spins. Pack this pilot 'spigot' bushing with grease for longer life.
"Sticking" clutch action can be caused by the clutch disc hanging on the
splined shaft as the throw-out bearing releases its pressure. Or the
clutch cross shaft bushings heavily scored from wear, making the
engagement action bind. This would be noticeable mostly in first, or
reverse gear when engagement is critical for smoothness. I've also found
that bad release (T/O) bearings aggravate this condition.
Be sure that the clutch pedal has no excess play between the pushrod and
pedal arm itself, or the bearings that support the pedal box. A little
lost motion here translates to a lot of lost stroke ahead of the slave,
and cannot be made up with 'trick' parts farther down. I have found this
play to be the most common source of clutches that won't disengage.
Dick T.
'73
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