Graham
Thank you for your reply. It is interesting how distances are related too in
different countries, and I appreciate your comment about what 4000Km would mean
to you.
I guess one of the advantages that we have in Oz is the long distances. My
2500 is manual with OD and at 110 kph (the state wide speed limit) I am only
pulling 2600 revs. MY wife Jan and I where born in Adelaide which is 750 miles
from Canberra and there has been many "visit the relo's" visits, and when you
are running through some less populated, very flat country side then it takes
one hour to travel 110 kilomteres. A couple of towns are located about 100
kilometres apart. So the whole trip takes about 12 driving hours.
The advantage is that it cleans the cobwebs out, but during the summer in 40C
degree heat, the oil does need a change after such a trip.
You mention, the problem of short runs and cleaning the condensation from the
oil. Many years ago, I proudly bought a BMC Morris Major. Typical of the the
cars at the time they had large water and oil capacities. When I came to live
in Canberra (a town of 50,000 and the longest drive was about 10 miles, warming
the engine sufficiently to drive out the condensation during winter (overnight
down to minus 6c) was a problem. I solved the problem by winterising the car
in the following manner:
1) remove the fan blades.
2) install a higher opening thermostat
3) blank out about 2/3 of the raditor with some canvas.
I did help to have a temp guage and a good eye. If things got too hot, then
jump out and remove canvas and all is OK.
Remember, the fan is dead useless over about 15mph. In my cars, the 2500S and
a '74 stag, I only use electric fans contolled through thermostats Plus and
incabin override switch. The visco fan in the 2500 went to the dump many years
ago.
in the meantime triumph onwards brian
At 11:56 PM 23/06/99 +0100, you wrote:
>Brian, you need no guidance on how to extract maximum miles from an engine and
>your procedures are proven by your engine condition, the low rev start is
>something I will be doing from now on. You do seem to travel long distances
>and this will help your oil condition, 4000Km here would start in the North Sea
>and end in France via the English Channel.
>Spin on filters and conventional filters have one common denominator, the
>filter paper. Now whether the same grade is used by the different
>manufacturers is a question not easily answered. I will be making a few
>phonecalls to see if I can get some answers on this because Rimmer supply a
>shorter filter
>cartridge than does Chris Witor according to Jonmac's e-mail. You can get the
>same flow through a small "filter" as you can through a large one if the holes
>in the paper are big enough, but it is what passes through the hole which does
>the damage. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the conventional
>filter as a filter (it's usually cheaper anyway) but it does have the annoying
>habit of slowly emptying into the sump and this is why the conversion took
>off. I think most members of the group use the Triumph for "special occasion"
>motoring so a lot of them spend more time dormant than is the case with an
>everyday car and this is the appeal of the conversion. You on the other hand
>use your "hackmobile" (Really, Brian, it deserves a better name than that at
>it's coming of age party) daily with long runs which help clear water from
>your oil, something which doesn't happen with occasional use.
>Long may your car continue. Should we refer to you as theWizard of Oz for
>keeping a '78 engine going so long
>
>Rgds
>GrahamJNelson
>
>"Brian A.Tink" wrote:
>
>> Graham
>>
>> Just read your message re spin on oil filters.
>>
>> I have often heard the theory that the spin on filters allow better oil feed
>on start up thus saving major bearing problems etc. etc.,
>>
>> while I would agree that if my engine was left untouched for several month I
>would be cranking it over as your do, and that the rattle of bearings on the
>initial morning start up can be a little dis-concerting.
>>
>> However, I sometimes really wonder just how much that is said about spin ons
>is fact or fiction. If it was serious fact then I would have to wonder how
>much I would have reduced any damage if I had fitted a spin on years ago.,
>then again, from my experience I wonder if there would have been any benefit.
>>
>> I have owned my 2500S since new (December 1978), it has been used as an
>every day "hack mobile", it has just clocked up 343,000 kilometres and I have
>only last month had the head off for the first time. One new valve and guides
>was all the new bits.
>>
>> But as for the bottom end. just after the head job, a 4000 kilometres
>interstate trip, using 2 litres of oil, giving 32+ MPG and I still hold 60 PSI
>at 2300 revs on a long trip. In the time since new the oil pressure has only
>deteriorated from 2000 to 2300 revs.
>>
>> Yes I am still using the original type oil filter, but what I do is that on
>initial start up I use minimum revs, no more that about 800, wait until the
>oil guage reaches a steady level and then drive slowly (Max 2000 revs) until
>engine is warm.
>>
>> regards Brian
>>
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