[TR] I'm Back!! TR2 Rear Oil Seal and Brake Drum Removal Issues

[Allen Hess]

The face of the hub and the inside of the drum could also be rusted, a fair amount of surface area. Maybe a few applications of heat with a propane torch help. Heat and cool, repeat.

If the oil seal has worn the surface, you should be able to see and feel it.

> On Aug 30, 2021, at 5:01 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> Don’t know about speedy sleeves for the axel seals, someone will. 
> 
> If the brake drum is turning, the only thing keeping it on is the friction fit around the hub and studs.   Spraying with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench or the acetone-ATF mix is a good way to go.   I use a 4lb soft-blow hammer so as not to chip the brake drum.  If you can get to move a little then a couple of tire irons may help you wiggle off the rest of the way.  
> 
> Never heard of the brake shoe fix you describe, couldn’t hurt.  I have had shoes become soaked with brake fluid, sprayed liberally with brake cleaner and scuffed with sandpaper, repeat, worked a treat.  
> 
> Bill B
> TS30800L
> 
> Last night I saw upon the stair,
> A little man who wasn't there,
> He wasn't there again today
> Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns
> 
> On Aug 30, 2021, at 2:44 PM, David Gunn <ccgunn at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi - After about a 10 year hiatus due to health issues, I'm back on the list.  It is good to see that this list is still going strong, and was in awe that the Dot 3 v. Dot 5 controversy still exists.  
> 
> I have a 1954 TR2 longdoor, TS3388L.  I rebuilt every system (brakes, electrical, fuel, cooling) 10-15 years ago.  I did not have to open up the engine, transmission or rear end, as they seemed to be working just fine.  It is close to original; although it does have a TR3 engine and disc brakes on the front (I didn't do it).  Everything from the transmission back is original.
> 
> When I parked it, I, unfortunately, did nothing.  So, I know that I will need to redo and rebuild all of the various systems.  I am hoping that I do not have to remove the gas tank again, as I parked it with a full tank of gas.  At some point, I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders.
> 
> I drove it many miles all over northern California.  My last drive was up to Lassen Park.  It ran fine; although it developed a leak in one of the rear wheel seals.  I replaced both seals, and then both leaked (par normal for me).  At that point, it was parked.
> 
> Now, I am back to it.  I am starting with the seals.  Someone suggested that driving it with the original (?) seals caused a scaring on the axle and that I needed to put a sleeve on the axle to ensure a good seal. Does that make any sense?  Is this something that I can do, or do I need to take the axles in to a machine shop?
> 
> The right rear brake drum came off with minimal effort.  I have not been able to get the left brake drum off.  It has the original 9" drums.  I have lightly tapped all the way around, to no avail.  (BTW, I did remove the 2 set screws, and was able to back off the shoes, so it spins relatively freely.)  I did knock a chip off the drum.  I hope that doesn't affect the balance of that wheel?  I have liberally sprayed penetrating oil in every crevice I could find.  I have not been back out to the shop since applying the penetrating oil, due to the poor AQI and heavy smoke from the wildfires in northern California.  
> 
> One more question:  I have 2 sets of near new brake shoes, but they were soaked with oil.  Somewhere I heard that burying them in a tub of kitty litter would draw out the oil.  Is this correct?  An old wives tale?
> 
> So, any advice from the combined wisdom of this group is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> David
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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