<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="ltr">The face of the hub and the inside of the drum could also be rusted, a fair amount of surface area. Maybe a few applications of heat with a propane torch help. Heat and cool, repeat.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">If the oil seal has worn the surface, you should be able to see and feel it.</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Aug 30, 2021, at 5:01 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar@yahoo.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">Dave,<div>Don’t know about speedy sleeves for the axel seals, someone will. </div><div><br></div><div>If the brake drum is turning, the only thing keeping it on is the friction fit around the hub and studs. Spraying with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench or the acetone-ATF mix is a good way to go. I use a 4lb soft-blow hammer so as not to chip the brake drum. If you can get to move a little then a couple of tire irons may help you wiggle off the rest of the way. </div><div><br></div><div>Never heard of the brake shoe fix you describe, couldn’t hurt. I have had shoes become soaked with brake fluid, sprayed liberally with brake cleaner and scuffed with sandpaper, repeat, worked a treat. </div><div><br></div><div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L</div><div><br><div dir="ltr"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Last night I saw upon the stair,<br>A little man who wasn't there,<br>He wasn't there again today<br>Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns</span></div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Aug 30, 2021, at 2:44 PM, David Gunn <ccgunn@sbcglobal.net> wrote:<br><br></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Hi - After about a 10 year hiatus due to health issues, I'm back on the list. It is good to see that this list is still going strong, and was in awe that the Dot 3 v. Dot 5 controversy still exists. <img title="Emoji" alt="Emoji" class="yahoo-emoji-wrapper" src="https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_assets/latest/yemoji_assets/1f600.png" style="padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align: middle;" data-inlineimagemanipulating="true" width="16" height="16" data-unique-identifier=""></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I have a 1954 TR2 longdoor, TS3388L. I rebuilt every system (brakes, electrical, fuel, cooling) 10-15 years ago. I did not have to open up the engine, transmission or rear end, as they seemed to be working just fine. It is close to original; although it does have a TR3 engine and disc brakes on the front (I didn't do it). Everything from the transmission back is original.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">When I parked it, I, unfortunately, did nothing. So, I know that I will need to redo and rebuild all of the various systems. I am hoping that I do not have to remove the gas tank again, as I parked it with a full tank of gas. At some point, I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I drove it many miles all over northern California. My last drive was up to Lassen Park. It ran fine; although it developed a leak in one of the rear wheel seals. I replaced both seals, and then both leaked (par normal for me). At that point, it was parked.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Now, I am back to it. I am starting with the seals. Someone suggested that driving it with the original (?) seals caused a scaring on the axle and that I needed to put a sleeve on the axle to ensure a good seal. Does that make any sense? Is this something that I can do, or do I need to take the axles in to a machine shop?<br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">The right rear brake drum came off with minimal effort. I have not been able to get the left brake drum off. It has the original 9" drums. I have lightly tapped all the way around, to no avail. (BTW, I did remove the 2 set screws, and was able to back off the shoes, so it spins relatively freely.) I did knock a chip off the drum. I hope that doesn't affect the balance of that wheel? I have liberally sprayed penetrating oil in every crevice I could find. I have not been back out to the shop since applying the penetrating oil, due to the poor AQI and heavy smoke from the wildfires in northern California. <br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">One more question: I have 2 sets of near new brake shoes, but they were soaked with oil. Somewhere I heard that burying them in a tub of kitty litter would draw out the oil. Is this correct? An old wives tale?<br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">So, any advice from the combined wisdom of this group is greatly appreciated.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Thank you,</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">David<br></div></div><span>** triumphs@autox.team.net **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar@yahoo.com</span><br></div></div></div></blockquote></body></html>