[TR] TR4 Won't Start

[Randall]

Its weird, it sounds ignition related, and you have a Pertronix.
That would certainly be enough for me!
On top of that, you've already replaced the coil and rotor.

Assuming you kept the old parts, it only takes a couple of minutes to swap out the Pertronix. I'll bet it at least changes the symptoms to something that makes more sense!

Also, check the resistance of each plug wire and the coil high tension lead, from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the end of the wire. 

Take the point plate ground lead loose from the distributor body, and check its resistance to the point plate, while moving and tugging gently on the wire. It rarely fails, but they can go intermittent without being visibly bad. And yes, the Pertronix module relies on a good ground through the point plate and that wire.
-- Randall

On 12 June 2019 19:45:44 GMT-06:00, Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the
>second
>turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the car
>for a
>show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, did
>catch and
>ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter is a hi-torque
>starter and had lots of "oomph". The rough running was like it was on
>two
>cylinders or less. After several more attempts to get it started,
>including
>some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger on to make sure
>the
>battery was charged fully. I attempted a start with the charger on the
>"start" setting with no luck. While looking over the engine compartment
>for
>a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around
>the
>filter adapter. The location was such that it appeared the seeping was
>between the oil filter head and the adapter.
>
> 
>
>Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would
>take
>care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and
>the
>filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new
>filter
>and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the
>oil.
>I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later.
>The
>fuel pump was one of TRF's "Made in Italy" pumps. The additional start
>attempts since then have not produced any oil seeping out.
>
> 
>
>Back to the start problem.  The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I
>removed
>the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted
>start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked
>OK,
>but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I
>tried
>both with no luck. To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to
>the
>Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had. No luck. I removed plug
>#1,
>grounded it on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start. I had a
>spark
>right away and almost immediately the car started up. Ran roughly -
>there
>were only three cylinders getting spark.
>
> 
>
>I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. No
>luck.
>Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 removed, car
>starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is back in, the car
>will
>not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not charged it again after
>several start attempts over the past few days) and drops to 11v during
>starter engagement.
>
> 
>
>I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections
>from
>the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure.
>
> 
>
>All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery
>connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v.
>Connections at
>the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and secure.
>
> 
>
>I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are
>most
>welcome.
>
> 
>
> 
>
>Keith Stewart
>
>keithstewart at bell.net
>
> 
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