[TR] TR4 Won't Start

[Jerry Van Vlack]

What type plug wires are you using? Some Pertronic units will not work well with solid copper wires and only work using resistor type wires.

From: Andrew Uprichard 
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 8:57 AM
To: 'Keith Richard Stewart' ; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Won't Start

Hey, Keith:

 

I think we are still in “information gathering mode” J

 

You say “there were only 3 cylinders getting spark”, but then “I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4”, so it sounds like you do have a spark at all 4 plugs?  One thing you do not mention is the state of the plugs:  are they wet and fouled, suggesting flooding?

 

Have you done a compression test?

 

My experience with Pertronix is when they fail there is no spark, but maybe someone else will chime in on whether a failure could still have a spark, albeit insufficient to get the car to run.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Richard Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 9:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Won't Start

 

When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the second turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the car for a show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, did catch and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter is a hi-torque starter and had lots of “oomph”. The rough running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After several more attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I attempted a start with the charger on the “start” setting with no luck. While looking over the engine compartment for a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the filter adapter. The location was such that it appeared the seeping was between the oil filter head and the adapter.

 

Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would take care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and the filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new filter and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later. The fuel pump was one of TRF’s “Made in Italy” pumps. The additional start attempts since then have not produced any oil seeping out.

 

Back to the start problem.  The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I removed the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I tried both with no luck. To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right away and almost immediately the car started up. Ran roughly – there were only three cylinders getting spark.

 

I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. No luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is back in, the car will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not charged it again after several start attempts over the past few days) and drops to 11v during starter engagement.

 

I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections from the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure.

 

All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v. Connections at the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and secure.

 

I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are most welcome.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 



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