[TR] Setting valves Procedure

[Randall]

>  I 
> always taught my shop students that you can never go wrong by 
> bringing each cylinder up to TDC-compression and then adjust 
> the valves for that cylinder.

This is essentially the same as described in the workshop manual.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkxMi00NGUzLWE4Nz
MtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1

It says to turn the engine until any pair of valves are "on the point of
rock" meaning both valves are moving and open by roughly the same amount.
This positions that cylinder at TDC-exhaust.  Then it says to turn the
engine one full rotation, which will bring that cylinder to TDC-compression.

Adjust both valves for that cylinder, then turn the engine forward by 1/2
revolution (180 crankshaft degrees) to bring the next cylinder in the firing
sequence to TDC-compression.

I use Alex's method : Just turn until any cylinder is "on rock" (again both
valves are moving, anywhere in the range where they are both moving will
do); then set the valves on the cylinder that is opposite in the firing
sequence.  Then turn it forward until the next cylinder in the firing order
comes up on rock, and set it's opposite cylinder.

So, for example, if #3 is "on rock", set the valves for #2.  Then turn the
engine forward until #4 comes up (exhaust closing and intake opening) and
set the valves for #1. #2 on rock, set #3. #1 on rock, set #4.

Repeat for good luck, this time just checking that all the clearances are
right.  Then I like to start the engine and let it idle with the rocker
cover off, just long enough to ensure that oil eventually flows to all the
rockers.  It may take a minute or two, but you should eventually get oil
oozing from the hole on top of each rocker.  If not, there may be a blockage
in the shaft (or the passages leading to it).  On one "rebuilt" engine, I
found that the rear cam bearing had been installed backwards and there was
no oil flow at all!

There is a different procedure described in the Haynes manual (and other
sources) known as the "rule of 9", but to me it is more complicated.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYTA1NTNmMGUtMTVjMy00NDEzLWJjN2
YtNTc1OWRkNjE4MjY4

One other point: The workshop manual says to set the exhaust valves to
.012".  However, this figure was changed to .010" during TR2 production,
when the aluminum alloy rocker pedestals were introduced (rather than the
original cast iron).  So unless you have one of those very early engines
(still with cast iron pedestals, the alloy pedestals were a factory-approved
retrofit), you should set both intake and exhaust to .010".

(Unless of course you have an aftermarket performance cam that calls for
more clearance.)

-- Randall