[TR] Starting a dry engine advice sought

[DAVID MASSEY]

 Modern cars no longer use flat tappets.  Vintage cars, British, American, German, whatever, use flat tappets that ride on the camshaft.  The metal cam slides against the bottom of the tappet as it rotates and this can cause wear.  The zinc, phosphorus and other additives make a lubricating layer to resist wear.


Modern cars now use a tappet that includes a roller type bearing to accommodate the lack of these additives which shorten the life of catalytic converters.


See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV9eLZrRbgA


 

Dave Massey


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
To: tr3driver <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 6, 2018 6:20 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Starting a dry engine advice sought



Thanks for the advice.  I will try to do all you say, it may take several days or even weeks before I have time because I volunteer with kidergarden down the road.  I also work with Habitat.

I've been told that Valvoline Racing oil has zinc in it.  It's odd that the newer cars don't require it.  In fact, why is it important?






On Wed, Sep 5, 2018 at 12:02 PM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

IMO you want one of the "high ZDDP" oils; or else a "break-in additive"
containing ZDDP.  My choice would be Valvoline VR1 "racing" oil.  10W30
should be fine, but 20W50 will work too.

Once the sump is full, I would pull the plugs and give each cylinder a shot
of oil through the plug hole; then spin the engine with the starter (plugs
still out) until the oil pressure gauge starts to move.  Then put the plugs
in and start it.

Once it fires off, check for obvious leaks then run at a fast idle
(1500-2000 rpm) for 15-20 minutes.  Keep an eye on the temp gauge, don't let
it overheat.  An electric fan in front of the radiator might help.  If
necessary, you can shut it off and let it cool, then restart and finish the
cam break-in.

-- Randall  

> Im hoping to start it today.  There's no oil in it and I'm 
> about ready to go to Autozone for some more.  ISTO REmember 
> that a good grade of 20w50 is probly what I want to aim 
> for,but, I wonder if 10w30 might be better for a dry engine.  
> If you want me to start with a thinner oil and after 10 
> minutes of run time, change out to 20w50 I can do that to.  
> Maybe a cdhange of oil filter is advisable too.
> 



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