[TR] rear oil seal conversion

[Tony Drews]

I replace the seal each time.  Once you find the right part it's like $10.

FYI on the crank - the stock crank will live pretty much forever if you 
red-line at 5000 RPM.  5500 and they start breaking.  6000 and they are 
good for about two seasons of racing before they can start to crack.  If 
you pull more than 5000 RPM's, crank prep is paramount.  The radius on 
all of the bearing journals needs to be smooth, not undercut with an 
edge.  Having the crank nitrided helps too.

Regards, Tony Drews


On 3/14/2018 4:45 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:
> List:  what is the general consensus about replacing rear oil seal 
> conversions?
> I have a smallmouth TR3 which is pulling well way past the 5500 rpm 
> mark, so rather than risk a failure of a 60 year-old cast iron 
> connecting rod, I think I will pull the engine and install steel 
> rods.  I had thought about a steel crank, but the 4-cylinder engines 
> have a remarkably robust crank (and money does become an option).  The 
> car has many upgrades, and I really should have gone with steel rods 
> originally.
> Anyway, the engine has the Moss rear oil seal conversion (with the 
> machined crank).  Should the seal be replaced as a matter of routine?  
> The engine only has about 2000 miles on it.
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
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