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<p>I replace the seal each time. Once you find the right part it's
like $10.</p>
<p>FYI on the crank - the stock crank will live pretty much forever
if you red-line at 5000 RPM. 5500 and they start breaking. 6000
and they are good for about two seasons of racing before they can
start to crack. If you pull more than 5000 RPM's, crank prep is
paramount. The radius on all of the bearing journals needs to be
smooth, not undercut with an edge. Having the crank nitrided
helps too.<br>
</p>
<p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/14/2018 4:45 PM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net">auprichard@uprichard.net</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:20180314144555.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.b269b899b2.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com">
<div>List: what is the general consensus about <span
style="text-decoration: underline;">replacing</span> rear oil
seal conversions?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I have a smallmouth TR3 which is pulling well way past the
5500 rpm mark, so rather than risk a failure of a 60 year-old
cast iron connecting rod, I think I will pull the engine and
install steel rods. I had thought about a steel crank, but the
4-cylinder engines have a remarkably robust crank (and money
does become an option). The car has many upgrades, and I really
should have gone with steel rods originally.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Anyway, the engine has the Moss rear oil seal conversion
(with the machined crank). Should the seal be replaced as a
matter of routine? The engine only has about 2000 miles on it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Andrew Uprichard</div>
<div>Jackson, Michigan</div>
<br>
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