[TR] Overheating Project

Erkan Hassan erkanhassan at yahoo.com
Fri Jul 20 20:12:51 MDT 2018

Thank you guys!!

So impact wrench it is....I already have one but need the big ass 6 point socket.

Are you saying the impact wrench in reverse will be enough to get the bolt out with nothing else to hold the hub?

I was not planning on replacing pulley so the entire hub and pulley will then come off? 
Then will I have free access to the timing chain cover?

Finally, once all this is off how do I turn the crank to align any sprocket markings to get to TDC?

As you can see I have never done this before and need a lot of help, so I TRUELY appreciate all of you and your advice/wisdom.


Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 6, 2018, at 7:27 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> Fan replacement is just a matter of the 4 bolts - though there may be a pair of locking tabs to undo depending on who has been there before and what they did.
> Certainly opening the petcock (or removing it entirely) should be part of any flush.  You may find it is clogged in which case fiddling in there with a bamboo skewer, stiff wire or even a drill may loosen things up.  As for where the water will come out if you put it into the heater hose connection - pretty much everywhere.
> Have you assessed the condition of the timing chain and determined it & the sprockets are worn?
> But what caught my eye was this statement...
>> I would fill up the radiator, and go for a drive...overheat and fluid gone upon return....
> The question is where did the fluid go?  If there was no obvious leaking or white smoke then there may be a failed head gasket letting coolant into the cylinders and out the exhaust.  A leak significant to show as coolant loss and overheating would not necessary have any visible traces in the exhaust.  One advantage of have antifreeze is that such a leak may be smelled more easily than it is seen.
> But I am not sure there is much you can do to test that possiblity (short of head removal) at this point in disassembly.
> Geo
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