[TR] Overheating Project

[Erkan Hassan]

UPDATE:  fiancé moved in right after July 4th, so just got back to TR3.  Got the fan, fan belt, water pump and pulley off.  Removed the bolts from the crankshaft pulley.
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Next step is suppose to be to remove the dog bolt.
Questions now are: 1) it looks like a 1 1/8 inch socket to fit over dog bolt...is that correct?
2) as the bolt is turned counterclockwise, any advice on how to keep the whole thing from Turning? 3) the fan belt pulley is loose. It looks like it is in 2pieces (front and back piece)is that right? Does the dog bolt and the arm in front of fan belt pulley need to come off to get to everything now?

All the wisdom of the list is appreciated...thank you all.
Erkan

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 10, 2018, at 2:16 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>> A quick way to determine a head gasket issue is to check the 
>> plugs. More often than not the plug in the cylinder that's 
>> leaking will be very clean and almost white insulator when 
>> compared to the others.
> 
> FWIW, several times now I have had head gaskets that only leak compression
> into the coolant, and only do that while the engine is pulling hard.  That
> forces coolant out the overflow, but without a recovery bottle there is no
> clear indication as to where it went.  Usually the engine just overheats
> slowly after that (due to the loss of coolant), but I have had it bad enough
> to air-lock the water pump and cause instant boil-over.
> 
> On the Stag sitting in my driveway, I could fill it up and drive all day if
> I was careful to never get on the throttle.  But floor it to go up a freeway
> on-ramp, and it would be boiling by the time I got to the top!
> 
> On two TR3 motors in a row now, the problem appears to be because the top of
> the cylinder block is not perfectly square to the liner seats inside.  As a
> result, the liner protrusion is different from side to side.  And of course,
> for a long time, I was only checking the side where it was within spec :(
> 
> My "short term" solution has turned into a long-term solution (almost 20
> years now on two different motors): a circle of .016" (26 AWG) bare copper
> wire tacked around each cylinder with soft solder.  Obviously it would still
> be better to have the block decked, but the copper wire has worked great for
> me.
> https://i.imgur.com/1IrJbfE.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/AXaq1t0.jpg
> 
> -- Randall
>