[TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 213
Michael Coe
coefront at shaw.ca
Thu Aug 23 12:40:54 MDT 2018
The aluminum radiator I installed in my TR8 many years ago is a huge, huge blessing !!
Mike - Calgary
> On Aug 22, 2018, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 2. List mail (Mark J Bradakis)
> 3. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 4. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 5. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton)
> 6. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton)
> 7. clearer second run... (David Templeton)
> 8. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
> 9. Aluminum radiator (Peter Arakelian)
> 10. Re: clearer second run... (Wbeech at flash.net)
> 11. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randall)
> 12. Re: Aluminum radiator (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
> 13. Re: Aluminum radiator (Hoyt Duff)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:14:00 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821111400.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.cb09a01a25.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 15:50:19 -0600
> From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] List mail
> Message-ID: <82f5ba8b-8bb1-f794-cdca-5dc1e231a3a7 at bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I may be making progress on various issues with Team.Net email. Or I may
> be making matters worse.? Hopefully things are getting better, and mail
> to the lists might get sped up a bit.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:16:15 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself.
>
> Andew
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box…
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value
>
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild….
>
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:13:03 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821141303.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.756ae5fc54.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> If the red light is on, you are not charging the system. If you have a modern alternator, I agree no need for the control box, but you still need to connect wires. I can send a pic when I get home at the end of the week. I don't think you can conclude anything from the ammeter until the system is charging. It is probably correcto, a small draw and the battery not charging. So wait until you fix the red light problem.
>
> Do you have the gearbox cover on? If not, does the cross-shaft move when you put you foot on the clutch? If the cover is on, have someone look underneath. There is a difference between crunching going into gear, but you still have a clutch, and being unable to find a gear with the engine running. If you start the car in gear and your foot is on the clutch, does it lurch?
>
> 60 psi at warm idle is great, maybe even a little high. Watch you don't go too high when driving.
>
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box…
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value
>
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild….
>
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 20:32:53 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, 'Triumphs
> List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <BL0PR1501MB198611DA41C9A0F8C2F068ADB6310 at BL0PR1501MB1986.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box?
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?.
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
>
> * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time????
> * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging?
> * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
> * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that?
>
> David
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 22:53:06 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, 'Triumphs
> List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <SN6PR1501MB199722F46BAABF46922B410CB6310 at SN6PR1501MB1997.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?..
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:16 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself.
>
> Andew
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>>
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net<mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>" <auprichard at uprichard.net<mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>>, "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net<mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> <auprichard at uprichard.net<mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box?
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__scontent.fyto1-2D1.fna.fbcdn.net_v_t31.0-2D8_22289710-5F10154791827276960-5F7862641928967427382-5Fo.jpg-3F-5Fnc-5Ffx-3Dfyto1-2D1-26-5Fnc-5Fcat-3D0-26oh-3D037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f-26oe-3D5C00F9F4&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=5Z47mQt16DkC7BEW6yxi_ZGC3enQcV4eld15EtHIrN0&e=>
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?.
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
>
> * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time????
> * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging?
> * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
> * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that?
>
> David
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=cnr8jWmcCsKYO-VwPxlbioE7t_UqrbXNk2CyHRB6318&e=> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=UX8-UHHCAvYCFMzUCjsDWiN2W0Fp8YQurMp3wWzk1Gs&e=> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_forums&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=YlQYemd_wAwGhdwFFIES_d3gz2ULwiTM-TxtMIHSYe4&e=> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprich
> ard at uprichard.net<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_auprichard-40uprichard.net&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=2tGMwiY4kg0FQAXNFECq6rLAD1qZM0cmQm_UcxDnUTE&e=>
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> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 02:33:14 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] clearer second run...
> Message-ID:
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>
> https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0
>
>
> David
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> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:36:01 +0000
> From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>, 'Triumphs List'
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <CY4PR1601MB1255DED063C76122890804ACB9300 at CY4PR1601MB1255.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> David-
>
>
> I missed earlier discussion on what you used for an alternator, but I assume you changed out the control box at the time you put in the alternator. If the alternator is a 3 wire Nippon Denso style as it looks like it might be in your picture, check the wiring to poles 1&2 on your alternator. For Pole 2, are you using switched power, or is the power on all the time? If its on full time, it might be why the charge light is on as well.
>
> Randy
> ________________________________
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:53 PM
> To: auprichard at uprichard.net; 'Triumphs List'
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
>
>
> Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?..
>
>
>
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>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 12:11:53 +0000
> From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID:
> <MWHPR18MB15334E74FC3C581F7164CFCFC1300 at MWHPR18MB1533.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve. Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact.
> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:47:45 -0500
> From: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] clearer second run...
> Message-ID: <4DB7F8C0-8961-42A8-A9DB-DDBA24E9C9D8 at flash.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Looking good, smooth.
> Bill
>
> Sent from my Handspring Treo
>
> On Aug 21, 2018, at 9:33 PM, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
>
>
> https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:04:11 -0400
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: "'David Templeton'" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID: <E45B4A8D896F48BDB7E82AF442067B7B at LAPTOPM3GPCDH8>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box.
>>
>> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_1015
>> 4791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat
>> =0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> Ok, so where is the wire to the light attached? With your changes to the
> control box, the 'D' terminal is now hot all the time, which will keep the
> light on if the light is still connected to 'D' (as original).
>
> There should be a separate output from the alternator that feeds the light
> and only the light.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:23:56 -0700
> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID: <bb753181-e741-4ed2-ae60-24cf18441a4a at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> On 8/22/18 5:11 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
>> Thanks to all for the input.? I have decided to go big bucks and get a
>> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ.? Spoke directly with several
>> makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses.? The Wizard was
>> very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the
>> brass drain valve.? Brass and aluminum do not go together.? Even
>> though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up
>> tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact.
>> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
> Instead of a drain valve, I prefer to use a threaded plug that has a
> sacrificial zinc anode attached.
>
> TeriAnn
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 11:43:38 -0400
> From: Hoyt Duff <hoytduff at gmail.com>
> To: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID:
> <CAMp=J_pjfqZ9EpMpF4y=fjD-KC9FADrAwCs18kqy1Snt0VjOzQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> You just use anti-sieze on the threads, which ameliorates the corrosion problem.
>
> On 8/22/18, Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com> wrote:
>> Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a
>> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers,
>> and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but
>> one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve.
>> Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have
>> not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and
>> aluminum eating away when in contact.
>> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
>>
>
>
> --
> --
> Hoyt
>
>
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>
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