[TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A.

[EDWARD WOODS]

Randall,

I'd be interested in learning how you extracted the broke taper pins from the shifting forks.

Ed Woods
> On August 19, 2018 at 10:44 AM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate,
> tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then
> back off a half turn and tighten the locknut.  Seemed to work fine on my
> Stags (which have a similar lever).
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc
> 
> Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit
> tighter.  Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to
> take them loose.
> 
> AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't
> fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings.  Herman van den
> Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space.
> But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and
> make the standard O-rings seal very well.  I bought the Teflon version, but
> I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well.  Sorry I don't recall the
> size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out.
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx
> (about 2/3 down)
> 
> I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there
> for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is).
> 
> On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then
> use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin.
> But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an
> earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins).
> 
> -- Randall  
> 
> 
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