[TR] Game Plan

dave dave at ranteer.com
Thu Jun 29 10:59:09 MDT 2017


I recently purchased a cast aluminum water pump housing from british parts
northwest and a billet aluminum water pump from Rimmer Bros (Rimmer also has
the housing)

Living in Dallas, keeping the car cool can be an issue.  These two items
made a very noticeable difference in the water temperature needle location.
Most of the time it used to sit noticeably to the right of vertical (towards
hot).  this car is a 72 so the needle points down.  Now it sits noticeably
to the left of vertical, toward cool, and the car seems to handle stop and
go traffic much better (I also have an electric fan).  Its kind of expensive
but I think well worth it.  If you look at the standard pump design, its
essentially just a cross.  The aluminum pump has six curved blades; just the
design is a major improvement.  Plus the engine spins up a little more
easily not pulling that extra weight.  The differential, btw, is 6 pounds
for the pump and cover, steel vs aluminum.

If you do not know when the hydraulics were last rebuilt/replaced, this
would be a good time since to properly repaint the engine compartment they
will have to come out anyway.  And definitely switch to silicon/DOT 5 brake
fluid - you don't want to mess up that nice paint!

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rbtr3a at cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2017 9:20 AM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Game Plan

Recently I purchased a hybrid of a TR6.  72 body 74 drive train. 
At some point the previous owners had rattle caned the upper engine
components silver. Intake, carbs and head. There is green over pray on the
block as well. 

My plan is this winter is to pull the engine, and trans/OD and clean up and
correctly paint the engine. And uniformly repaint the engine compartment to
match the body. 


This engine feels strong and pulls well. So I'll pull a compression test for
comparison.

While the engine is out I was thinking of pulling to pan and change out
bearing shells while it is out. Check the thrust washers for end float. 

I will attempt to seal up any potential oil leaks. I will hammer and dolly
the pan flat for I'm sure it's been over torqued. 

I'm also considering swapping out the Stromburgers  with a freshly rebuilt
set of SU's I currently have.  

While engine is out I'll rebuild the front suspension components.

This car need several areas of attention. Engine bay, suspension, interior,
and carpet set. If the compression test are favorable id like to focus
dollars in the other areas rather than do a full engine rebuild.  

Share your thought. 

 



 

Ronnie

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