[TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 10, Issue 196

[Bob Leaver]

The fuel help is great and the fuse with the red wires does show power when
the lights are on. Amazing
Thanks for all the help

On Fri, Jul 28, 2017 at 12:00 PM, <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
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>    1. Re: Fuel (Randall)
>    2. Re: Fuel (Geo Hahn)
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, Bob Leaver <boleaver at gmail.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 08:57:08 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel
> As Jonmac said, the rating methods are different. If your engine is stock,
> the 87 should do fine. If you do find that it pings under some
> circumstances, back off the timing a bit.
>
> My suggestion on the lead additive is to wait and see if you have a
> problem. Set the valves, drive 1000 miles or so and check them again. If
> the exhausts have closed up, you may need the additive. But in most cases,
> it is not needed.
>
> FWIW, BMIHT did a test some years back that showed most lead additives are
> useless. Redline was the only brand that they found worked, and is also
> available in the US. I bought a case on Amazon. It certainly helped a lot
> (I had severe recession on my TR3), but you have to be religious about
> getting it in every single tanks. I missed a few, which I think is why my
> exhaust valves quit sealing. Swapped in a different head, and it has no
> problem at all.
>
> The red wires should be for taillights, the fuse is hot only when the
> headlight switch is on. Green should be for everything controlled by the
> ignition, like turn signals, heater and so on. These cars don't have very
> many fuses, a lot of things share fuses and others are simply unprotected.
> -- Randall
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc: Bob Leaver <boleaver at gmail.com>
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 06:47:53 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel
> I find I can use regular in my TR4 if it is Shell or Chevron - but gas
> from the cheap places (like Costco) has to be the premium selection or I
> get pinging.
>
> I never had a no-lead issue until I did a steady 80 mph drive from CA to
> AZ - I think that was what pushed it over the edge as upon getting home I
> was unable to adjust one of the exhaust valves, just too much recession.
>
> After that I got hardened seats installed.  But, IMO, no harm in waiting
> until the problem arises before taking that step (unless you have the head
> off for other reasons).
>
> Geo
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:57 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> As Jonmac said, the rating methods are different. If your engine is
>> stock, the 87 should do fine. If you do find that it pings under some
>> circumstances, back off the timing a bit.
>>
>> My suggestion on the lead additive is to wait and see if you have a
>> problem. Set the valves, drive 1000 miles or so and check them again. If
>> the exhausts have closed up, you may need the additive. But in most cases,
>> it is not needed.
>>
>> FWIW, BMIHT did a test some years back that showed most lead additives
>> are useless. Redline was the only brand that they found worked, and is also
>> available in the US. I bought a case on Amazon. It certainly helped a lot
>> (I had severe recession on my TR3), but you have to be religious about
>> getting it in every single tanks. I missed a few, which I think is why my
>> exhaust valves quit sealing. Swapped in a different head, and it has no
>> problem at all.
>>
>> The red wires should be for taillights, the fuse is hot only when the
>> headlight switch is on. Green should be for everything controlled by the
>> ignition, like turn signals, heater and so on. These cars don't have very
>> many fuses, a lot of things share fuses and others are simply unprotected.
>> -- Randall
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
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>>
>>
>
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