[TR] How to removed clutch fork when tapered pin broke

Randall TR3driver at ca.rr.com
Mon Jan 9 12:24:06 MST 2017


> The tapered pin broke in the shaft.   Do I cut the fork off or the shaft?

Seems easiest to me to cut the shaft.  One of those cheap angle grinders
from HF plus a cutoff wheel (also HF) will make short work of it.
 
> I am able to see the pin through the inside of the.  Would it be possible
> to drill and extract?

What I did was to drill a 3/16" hole through the fork, so I could tap the
broken end of the pin out with a 1/8" pin punch.  The fork surface is at an
angle there, so center punch and start drilling perpendicular to the
surface.  Once you've penetrated a bit, turn and start drilling in line with
the pin.  The hole doesn't seem to hurt the fork, I'm still using it.

Adding a reinforcement for the taper pin seems prudent.  I use a 1/4" grade
8 bolt, long enough for the unthreaded shank to go into the fork on the
other side.  Once it's installed, cut off the extra threaded portion (so it
doesn't hit the gearbox).  Measure the bolt shank and select a drill that
size or .001" smaller.  (ISTR it was size D for me but check that.) Seat the
taper pin first, being sure to get the fork turned the right way (for some
odd reason, there is an extra hole in my shaft <g>).  There are some other
ideas at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm
 
The shaft in the Stag was pretty badly worn at the bushing on the slave
cylinder side, which may add to the "low pedal" problem.  So I converted to
the much wider brass bushing from a TR3-4 and added some grease zerks so
they can be lubricated occasionally.  Space is tight under a Stag, so I
opted to put the zerks into the housing.
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Stag/DSCF0054.jpg.html

-- Randall




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