[TR] TR3 Steering wheel question

[glemon at neb.rr.com]

I didn't find a video, but here is a tutorial with pictures http://www.tinshackrestoration.com/2014/01/13/banjo-steering-wheel-restoration/ I have seen many of these, the basic formula is the same as Randall has outlined grind out the joint, fill with some type of durable, sandable minimal shrinkage epoxy, sand, sand, prime, finish.

MG, Healey, and I am sure many others of the era are the same in construction if not detail, so if looking for a video expand your search I am sure something will come up.

I put lace up covers on my various wheels over the years, I just get the cheap ones (x large or truck size for our big old wheels) at the local chain store.  Better and more comfortable grip.  If the wheel is nice it will keep it nice, I bought a car with a nice restored wheel (once), noticed my wedding ring was scratching it, put on the cover, cheaper than  a divorce. 
If the wheel has some flaws it will cover them up.

Greg Lemon
TR250

---- Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> > Is there a good tutorial somewhere on YouTube?   I have one that's pretty
> > ratty as well.
> 
> I'm sure there is, but I just winged it.  
> 
> Clean up the old material, remove anything powdery or loose, and as much
> rust as possible.  I used a variety of techniques, including a wire brush in
> the Dremel and squirting some phosphoric acid solution on the metal frame
> under the rubber.  For narrow cracks, open the crack up using a coarse file
> or mounted burr. 
> 
> Then I wiped it down with first PPG DX330 "Acryli-clean" and a clean rag,
> repeating until the rag stayed clean; then again with acetone. 
> 
> Then I started adding layers of JB Weld (my favorite epoxy putty, no doubt
> others would work as well), using some fiberglass strands as reinforcement
> for the thicker areas.  JB Weld will sag if you try to apply it too thick,
> so I limited each layer to maybe 1/16" or less.  After each layer, I let it
> harden then sanded and filed down any high spots.  (The fiberglass strands
> more or less refused to lay down smoothly, but sanded away easily.)  A
> sanding drum on the Dremel was invaluable for doing the finger grips.  It's
> a lot like doing body work with Bondo, just a different shape and material
> (and a lot longer for the JB Weld to dry).
> 
> I had some VHT black spray vinyl dye on hand that I used for paint.
> Probably Rustoleum would have worked as well.
> 
> It hasn't seen much use, but still looked good after a year of sitting in
> Dad's shed; and getting rained on for 3 days during this year's show.  You
> have to look carefully to find the places where there are still tooth marks
> from the file showing; it feels just right to my hands.  The epoxy might be
> just a smidgeon harder than the old hard rubber (or whatever it was), but I
> can't tell the difference.
> 
> On the TR3 of course, I just laced on a custom leather cover from
> Wheelskins.  Looks great and feels great.  Only $30 each plus $8 S&H (for
> two covers) (tho that was a few years back) through eBay.  The measurements
> I gave them were 16-7/8" by 2-5/16".  
> 
> Or I believe Moss sells the same thing pre-made for about twice the price.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> 
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