[TR] heater valve on block tr-3

[Randall]

> After all that I disassembled the brass water control valve and machined
> it internally for a larger passage to improve flow rate. I can still turn
> it on/off and vary the flow rate but now it's a significantly greater flow
> rate, but I like the max flow I am getting with the steel elbow and have
> left it in place. Only downside is I can't easily shut off the heater's
> water flow if I want, or need, to. 

This won't be for purists; but one of the last changes I made when I lived
in a colder climate was to upgrade the entire heater circuit to 1/2" id
plumbing.  The outlet on the head can be enlarged to 1/2" NPT; ditto for the
return fitting at the water pump.

Didn't help much with the stock heater; but I suspect would make a
significant improvement with an aftermarket heater.  1/2" id is the minimum
for US cars, many use 5/8" or even 3/4".

I forget offhand which heater valve I used, but there are several to chose
from that can be inserted in a hose under the dash and either operated with
a cable or, with some minor gymnastics, turned by hand.  Or even a simple
ball valve from the hardware store will offer essentially no resistance to
flow when turned fully on.

Even if the above is too extreme for you, be sure to check the return line
along the LH side of the block.  Mine was at least 50% clogged, and the ones
I found on parts cars were worse.

Using a modern "wax pellet" type thermostat will also produce more heat, as
it will stay fully closed until 180F or so; instead of starting to open at
160.

-- Randall Y