[TR] heater valve on block tr-3

[John Macartney]

I had this self-same problem on my 1952 Ferguson TE20 tractor. On removing the head, the water passage behind #4 cylinder was so solid with accumulated lime scale, I had to remove liners 3 & 4 to fully remove it. What looked like a simple job at the outset soon proved to be very different ☹ Best to use water-free coolant to stop this happening again.

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com
Sent: 04 December 2017 14:31
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net; Reihing, Randall S. <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu>
Subject: Re: [TR] heater valve on block tr-3

Randall R. beat me to it, definitely check for gunk in the back of the block, it accumulates and blocks the flow.  You can get a surprising amount out by poking with screwdrivers, stiff wires etc., and a good flush.  The block drain valve on my 4a did not drain at all until I did this.

Greg Lemon
TR250

---- "Reihing wrote: 
> Gary,
> 
> On my '59 TR3A I removed the heater valve and replaced it with a cast iron elbow and two tee's from the local hardware store to see if that would improve the flow. Big surprise when I removed the valve - the chamber in the head the valve was screwed into was plugged solid with an old accumulation of rust, and jelled antifreeze, or some kind of gunk that resembled jelled antifreeze. I used a screwdriver and a vacuum to clean it out then removed the hose attached to the downstream side of the heater's water control valve and attached it to a garden hose using a cobbled up collection of nipples and reducers, etc.
> 
> Then I disconnected the heater return line to the water pump that comes through the firewall on the driver side under the hydraulic master cylinders for the clutch and brakes and let it point down toward the ground. When all was connected, I ran water  from the garden hose through the TR3's heater system and collected it in a 5 gallon bucket. At first it was dark, dirty brown, then after about 2-3 gallons went through it started to clear up and by the time the bucket was full the water was clear. Reconnected everything on the TR3 and substituted the 90 degree curved elbow with it's two tee connectors in place for the brass valve, started the car, and when the engine warmed up to it's normal 185F, I had some decent heat but I have to admit, "decent heat" is a relative term compared to zero heat. TR3 heaters are about 4500 btu's to maybe 5000 btu's when working properly and the engine coolant is at 185F or higher.
> 
> After all that I disassembled the brass water control valve and machined it internally for a larger passage to improve flow rate. I can still turn it on/off and vary the flow rate but now it's a significantly greater flow rate, but I like the max flow I am getting with the steel elbow and have left it in place. Only downside is I can't easily shut off the heater's water flow if I want, or need, to. Someday I will reinstall the heater control valve as I like the look of it but for the moment, I am leaving the elbow in place.
> 
> I hope that helps.
> 
> Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
> 
> Randall Reihing
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Gary Nafziger [nafzigerg at yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2017 8:59 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] heater valve on block tr-3
> 
> first wanna thank the list and specifically Randall for help with starter solenoid ?.  Tested and found solenoid was bad so all is well.
> 
> Just had a question for the list.  I'm just not getting as much heat through the Marydane (sp) replacement heater in tr-3.  Temp guage shows 185 degrees but temp through heater is warmish and I can grab with my hands the heater hoses going into the heater.  Checked flow and everything out and I'm pretty sure its the heater valve on the block.  It's the faucet type with the green round handle.  I'm thinking the inside broke loose and its closed.
> 
> several years ago I bought a radiator valve of a similar type and it leaked as soon as I filled the radiator.  My heater valve came from the same vendor and I'm guessing they both might not be made well.
> 
> Just wondered if anyone else on the list has had these valves fail.  I'm planning on replacing with a later valve.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> gary n.


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