[TR] TR3 Steering box

[Art McEwen]

Thanks Randall, that makes it a winter project not a weekend one.  

On Aug 22, 2017, at 5:54 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I've got some play in the steering box, what are the odds 
>> I'll just be able to replace the peg and bush in situ
> 
> You'll have to pull the box out of the car.  If you have a later 3A with the
> split column, it is possible (just barely) to get the box out without
> removing the front apron.  But after having done it, I honestly think
> pulling the apron is easier!  For earlier cars with the solid column, there
> is no choice, the apron must come off.  
> 
> The worm does wear some, but the peg & bushing seem to wear faster.  I got a
> lot of improvement just by replacing the peg & bushing, plus careful
> adjustment afterwards.  Be careful when pressing the new peg into the arm,
> it has to go in perfectly straight.
> 
> After trying a few other methods, I am convinced that the only accurate
> method to set the worm end float is to add a shim, measure the end float
> with a dial indicator; then remove the indicated amount of shims.
> 
> http://imgur.com/yUGNU5X
> 
> Setting the rocker shaft end float is a bit tricky too; if your worm is
> worn, the tight spot may be off to the side of center (or there may even be
> two of them).  Correct adjustment is when you can just feel the tight spot,
> while turning the shaft with your fingers, no matter where it happens.
> Obviously, this has to be done after setting the worm.
> 
> Worth noting, perhaps, that the steering box deliberately has some play when
> away from center.  So it's also important that the car goes straight with
> the box centered.
> 
> -- Randall
>