[TR] TR4A - Heater Motor

Cosmo Kramer tr4a2712 at yahoo.com
Sat Oct 1 11:03:36 MDT 2016


Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2016 18:49:30 -0500
From: "G.D. Huggins" <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Heater Motor

All,
So there I was, head in hand wondering aloud, ?How is this effing thing still so slow?? ...
Desperate for advice, I am wondering if hooking it directly to the car battery might be too much power?
I mean, I would expect that raw energy to make the damned thing take flight or something, with zero resistance in the line.

Any sage advice? Cheers,
Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO
------------------------Hi GHH!I can't check my old TR4a because it's in Switzerland, But I do recall my TR4A had a 2 speed switch. Check your switch & wiring to be correct.-Cosmo Kramer






------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2016 23:12:49 -0500
From: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: n dave <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck distributor
Message-ID: <190A952A-3ED6-4667-94FE-34AE4407B44D at flash.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii


A friend asked me to look at his car today, poor running after he replaced the module in his Mallory distributor. While I know nothing about electronic ignition, I understand Lucas, a quick look with a strobe showed it running about 25 degrees ATDC at 1000rpm.  I suspect a small difference in the placement of the sensor in the module. 

Thinking this is a simple fix the loosen the hold-down plate and reset the dizzy, I could not budge it.  I didn't want to use any tool to force it as I am worried about the aluminium body.  

Any tips on how to safely get an aluminium dizzy out of a cast iron block?  Soaking with Liquid Wrench has not helped yet, maybe tomorrow.  

All comments appreciated,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my Altair 8800


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2016 21:24:53 -0700
From: "Dave Hammond" <dbh97530 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: 'Dean Webb' <dwebb1945 at aol.com>
Subject: [TR] Shift knob for overdrive cars
Message-ID: <003801d21ad2$986e8580$c94b9080$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

There is a guy out there making wooden shift knobs with an overdrive switch
in them; his name is Jerimy. Can anybody give me his contact info? I'd like
to order one.

Thanks

David



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2016 07:19:20 -0400
From: George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Heater Motor
Message-ID: <c01a7de8-a013-3175-87c3-b60478e01fbd at key-men.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

If the motor has been binding for some time, it may have overheated and 
shorted some windings.

I haven't opend my TR6 heater for refurbishment yet (it's on my short 
list), so I'm not sure what type of motor it is.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

On 9/29/2016 7:49 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
>
> So there I was, head in hand wondering aloud, ?How is this effing thing still so slow??
>
> While doing the prep work to replace a bad wiper wheel assembly, I decided to address my non-functioning heater, you know, since I was under the dash and all.
> After getting the heater on the bench, I discovered the problem was one of the very small bolts that hold the motor into the top sheet of the heater body had come free, and the motor was tilted, mechanically binding.  So, I pulled the motor, wired directly to the car?s battery and it spun fine!
>
> However, it produced about as much wind as an old lady blowing on my knees.
> So today, I tore it down, cleaned it up, polished the surfaces, and re-insulated the internal wires.
> Put it all back together, hooked it to the battery at it spins.. THE SAME LOW SPEED!!
> So all that reconditioning had zero effect.
>
> Desperate for advice, I am wondering if hooking it directly to the car battery might be too much power?
> I mean, I would expect that raw energy to make the damned thing take flight or something, with zero resistance in the line.
>
> Any sage advice?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2016 08:43:06 -0400
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Lee Janssen" <lee.k.janssen at gmail.com>, "triumphs"
    <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Got to be an easier way
Message-ID: <7281C00973AF47FCBCA76185F07BDBA7 at DELLPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Yup....the dash comes all apart.... the crash pad ?vinyl flaps? get inserted behind the metal dash.... As I recall, you even have to loosen the metal dash to install the pads. Same goes for the top dash pad which goes under the windshield frame and behind the metal dash.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets

From: Lee Janssen 
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 2:33 PM
To: triumphs 
Subject: [TR] Got to be an easier way

I was going to quickly replace the lower driver side fascia for a 1974 TR6; however, I cannot believe that, according to the service manual, you must take apart almost the entire dash. 
Anyone know an easier way?
Thanks in advance

Lee 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2016 08:44:38 -0500
From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Stuck distributor
Message-ID: <002101d21b20$cd7647b0$6862d710$@flash.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

A friend asked me to look at his car today, poor running after he replaced
the module in his Mallory distributor. While I know nothing about electronic
ignition, I understand Lucas, a quick look with a strobe showed it running
about 25 degrees ATDC at 1000rpm.  I suspect a small difference in the
placement of the sensor in the module. 

Thinking this is a simple fix the loosen the hold-down plate and reset the
dizzy, I could not budge it.  I didn't want to use any tool to force it as I
am worried about the aluminium body.  

Any tips on how to safely get an aluminium dizzy out of a cast iron block?
Soaking with Liquid Wrench has not helped yet, maybe tomorrow.  

All comments appreciated,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my Altair 8800



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2016 08:44:54 -0600
From: Bud R <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>, Triumph Mail List
    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tires
Message-ID: <BFF1D6B5-19E8-4EE5-A127-A7BFDD75D418 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Speaking of Fred I?d like to take the opportunity to offer up for distribution the FT memorial stickers and ?clingers?. I believe I got these from Marty Sukey at some point in the past and promptly lost them in one of my many piles of stuff. They resurfaced when I was looking for something else?that always happens.

I?m going to be at VTR starting next Tuesday and will have them with me. So if you remember Fred Thomas or if you?re one of the 1000?s he ever helped with any powder coating related tasks (he taught me how), or if he helped you find a part or make a repair, or if you just want a remembrance of one the icons of the Triumph community then ask me at VTR or pick one up at the car show where they will be on my car windshield for the taking.

Freddie was more than just a powder coating guru. He set the standard, at least the one I strive for, on how to be a Triumph owner. And that was to make your car as nice as you can, make it as reliable as you can, and drive it as much as you can. I?ll always have a FT sticker on my car and on my tool boxes so I?ll never forget that lesson.

Here?s a couple pics to show what the stickers and clingers look like.

My first Fred story is this.  After watching me do a 360 in the autocross Fred came up introduced himself and suggested some different tire pressures. I was willing but had no air tank or compressor so Fred went to one of his many friends and found one and brought it back to me. That was the start of a great friendship. 

I still have a picture of the oil drips Fred?s TR3A left on my driveway when he and Dan Masters came by my house on the way to VTR 2001 in Breckenridge. Yes, even FT?s car leaked a little.

Second story.  I called Fred to ask him a question right before the 2004 VTR and he told me he?d been in his work pit, (the old fashioned below ground level type) that only Fred had, and had been waxing his frame. Only Fred waxed his frame before VTR. But then only Fred won as many best of show awards as he did.


Regards
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK 3 (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Sep 29, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Bud R <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> Speaking of Fred I?d like to take the opportunity to offer up for distribution the FT memorial stickers and ?clingers?. I believe I got these from Marty Sukey at some point in the past and promptly lost them in one of my many piles of stuff. They resurfaced when I was looking for something else?that always happens.
> 
> I?m going to be at VTR starting next Tuesday and will have them with me. So if you remember Fred Thomas or if you?re one of the 1000?s he ever helped with any powder coating related tasks (he taught me how), or if he helped you find a part or make a repair, or if you just want a remembrance of one the icons of the Triumph community then ask me at VTR or pick one up at the car show where they will be on my car windshield for the taking.
> 
> Freddie was more than just a powder coating guru. He set the standard, at least the one I strive for, on how to be a Triumph owner. And that was to make your car as nice as you can, make it as reliable as you can, and drive it as much as you can. I?ll always have a FT sticker on my car and on my tool boxes so I?ll never forget that lesson.
> 
> Here?s a couple pics to show what the stickers and clingers look like.
> 
> My first Fred story is this.  After watching me do a 360 in the autocross Fred came up introduced himself and suggested some different tire pressures. I was willing but had no air tank or compressor so Fred went to one of his many friends and found one and brought it back to me. That was the start of a great friendship. 
> 
> I still have a picture of the oil drips Fred?s TR3A left on my driveway when he and Dan Masters came by my house on the way to VTR 2001 in Breckenridge. Yes, even FT?s car leaked a little.
> 
> Second story.  I called Fred to ask him a question right before the 2004 VTR and he told me he?d been in his work pit, (the old fashioned below ground level type) that only Fred had, and had been waxing his frame. Only Fred waxed his frame before VTR. But then only Fred won as many best of show awards as he did.
> 
> 
> Regards
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 69 Spitfire MK 3 (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 25, 2016, at 4:54 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>> The late Fred Thomas had "wide whites" on his TR3A, and to be honest, I
>> thought it looked very nice.  Not my style, but it really worked for him.
>> 
>> http://tinyurl.com/z9y6jvn
>> 
>> Anyone know what happened to Fred's cars?
>> 
>> -- Randall 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net
> <IMG_7295.jpeg><IMG_7296.jpeg>

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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2016 13:53:23 -0400
From: Tony Childs <tochilds at bellsouth.net>
To: Dave Hammond <dbh97530 at gmail.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 'Dean Webb' <dwebb1945 at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Shift knob for overdrive cars
Message-ID: <v634bvjhgxw4ct7yhqloy3jh.1475258003992 at email.android.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


    
I would be interested as well.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab? S

-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Hammond <dbh97530 at gmail.com> 
Date: 9/30/16  12:24 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Cc: 'Dean Webb' <dwebb1945 at aol.com> 
Subject: [TR] Shift knob for overdrive cars 





There is a guy out there making wooden shift knobs with an
overdrive switch in them; his name is Jerimy. Can anybody give me his contact
info? I?d like to order one.

Thanks

David









    
        
            
                
            
        
        
            
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End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 9, Issue 228
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Nice and tidy. -Cosmo Kramer
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