[TR] carb issues and stalling

Wed Nov 4 19:01:58 MST 2015

hmm, one of those interesting times when the perceived cause and the 
observed result are at odds..
DaveP
PS as a simple visual check on SU or Stromberg/Zenith( with movable 
jets) carbs.. remove the piston chamber and look at the depth of the jet 
head. They should be (essentially) equal and about 1/8-1/4'' down in the 
bore. This will make a car start and run at any location in the US and 
most of the world. If during this 5 minute exercise one observes fuel 
above that level, then adjust the float bowl level to below the jet 
head. If the depth is too low or the fuel too high one WILL have sooty 
and or wet plugs. The choke(s) notwithstanding in this observation.
  If sediment, in this case, was the cause, it was because the choke was 
used excessively or the mixture was too rich in the first place and the 
"sooty" plugs were not firing due to the wetness. Sediment would/does 
inhibit fuel delivery and would cause a lean run or miss. I'm always 
available to followup..

On 11/4/2015 4:57 PM, CFMTR3A wrote:
> Today was a long and interesting day.
>
> Pulled plugs - dark/sooty and #4 damp.  Cleaned (only had couple hundred
> miles on them); let the chambers 'air out'
> Looked at fuel pump bowl; quite a bit of sediment; cleaned.  Most was dirt
> but some was picked up by a magnet.
> Disconnected fuel line at carbs; blew air through line; in addition to fuel
> there was quite a bit of grunge
> Opened float bowls on carbs; not too bad but evidence of moisture in the
> fuel
> Left it all open to 'air out'.  Cleaned carbs as much as possible without
> dismantling.
>
> Fuel filter before the pump - major sediment.  Cleaned it. It was so dirty
> that the grunge was getting past the filter.
> Looked in gas tank and sediment at bottom; used magnet to clean it out.
> About a tablespoon's worth.
> Blew air toward gas tank from filter connection.  Used magnet again and got
> about half that again. Looks like more in there so will do it again tomorrow
> morning after the fuel settles.
> Not sure what to do if it is just dirt.  Let it run almost dry and mop it up
> with rags?
> #4 plug was .035 not .025 as spec'd.  could be why it was wet - couldn't get
> enough spark.  Also mixture was about 1flat too rich on both carbs
> Reconnected everything;  Checked points/condenser - no issues.
> Primed fuel pump; pulled choke; and voila - purred like a kitten; idle a
> little high at 1000-1100RPM.  Went for a 30 mile drive; no stalling; no
> missing; no run-on.
>
> Tomorrow, I'll check timing although I don't expect any issues; re-set idle
> and go for a long drive including highway speeds.  Can't decide if I'll get
> more gas or let it get low.  About half tank now.
>
> The fuel filter is attached to the chassis rail and barely visible looking
> down past the wiper motor mount area. I think it is about in the same
> location that earlier models had a fuel shut-off.  It is not easy to check.
> I may need to re-think location.
>
>
> Carl
> 1960 Triumph TR3
> TS81802LO
> Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
> Sent: Wednesday, November 4, 2015 2:54 PM
> To: 'Truiumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] "The Little Bits"
>
> My wife calls it the roundtoit list.  I'll eventually get around to it....
>
> Checked off six of them yesterday.
> 1 & 2: fixed loose backup light mounting so that it doesn't bounce all over
> the place and tightened socket so no more intermittent light.
> 3 & 4: Replaced buffers for the cubby box door and added a piece of tubing
> where the lock mechanism 'fastens' to get rid of that persistent rattle.
> 5: Added grommets and fish-line loop on the top cover (to the lift-the-dot
> peg) so it stays tucked under at speed
> 6: same repair Randall mentioned below
>
> Today I am going to try to figure out why the car dies whenever I come to a
> stop (richness, timing, etc) - thanks to all who added comments on that
> topic over the last week or so.  Plenty of suggestions to work through.
>
> Still need to mount the soft top; and completely do the hard-top
> installation.
> Figure out how to operate the Go-Pro's simultaneously (3 cameras - mounted
> on front bumper mount; roll-bar right behind where the passenger would be
> sitting; and somewhere on the back looking to the rear).    Supposedly the
> remote can be set up to start/stop all at the same time.
>
> And don't get me started on the ever-growing honey-do list.
>
> But this endless weekend is great!  Don't know why I didn't do it 20 years
> ago... Oh, yeah... kids, mortgage, bills, food on the table, etc.
>
> Carl Musson
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> TS81802LO
> Tampa Bay Florida
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2015 10:19 AM
> To: 'Truiumphs'
> Subject: Re: [TR] Vibration at Speed
>
>
>> Ah - the old "when I get time".....
>>
>> Let me know when you work out where to find it......  :-)
> Guilty as charged!  But now that I'm retired, I am slowly getting various
> projects done between naps.  Just the other day, I finally repaired the
> threads in the windscreen frame, so I could install the Tenax pegs.  Now at
> least in theory I could install a top (if I had one) <g>
>
> Randall
>
>
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-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/