[TR] Vibration at Speed

[Rochlin Robert]

Hi Everyone,
	Thanks so much for the replies to my post. 
	I will start looking at the most obvious things like the hubs first and work from there, but I think that Craig may be right,  that I may want to choose my battles and learn to live with a little vibration as it could be a combination of small wear issues.  
	 As I said, I’m running Dayton wire wheels and after about 25,000 miles they were true required no adjustment ( a lot of money to figure that out…) Wire wheels are definitely more finicky that steel wheels. The rear hub adapters were worn and had some play and, as a result, were replaced.   The steel wheels I originally took off were perfectly straight and ran true.  The outfit  that checked my wheels also trues steel wheels, but they are not cheap and it may be less expensive to replace steel wheels that to ship them both ways and pay shop costs. 
	I also have had the same experience as Randall.  I had a 72' 240 Z back in the seventies and couldn’t get the shimmy out of the wheels for anything.  I went to local shop, Alignment Specialty Co., and had the wheels balanced on the car.  The car was absolutely vibration free after the on car balancing, but you do need to index the wheels to the hub/drums to maintain the balance, a much more challenging task with wire wheels as compared to steel wheels.
	Thanks again for the help and advice.
	Bob
> On Nov 3, 2015, at 10:21 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have a friendly local tire shop that let me spend the afternoon sorting all the rims I could get my hands on (12 to 16 of them). At the end of the day, I had 2 mostly true rims and 2 that were out more than a bit. Mostly true went on the front and the best of the rest are on the back.
> 
> It's a pretty smooth ride now.
> 
> 
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