[TR] removing a broken bolt

[Philip Ethier]

When drilling for an easy-out, always use a left-hand drill.  Often the
vibration and torque of drilling loosens the bolt.  At least, it does not
tighten it!

On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 10:55 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Terry,
>
> Try an easy out. I have had good luck from time to time. But before you
> do, try some heat and candle wax before you attempt removal. Since the
> block is cast and the bolt is steel, should be enough to get some wax in
> the thread area.
>
> Another trick I have used is to first heat, with wax, then cool with ice.
>
> I did a similar thing installing the pressure plate on my 6. The easy out
> worked like a champ with the heat,  wax and cool method.
>
> I also have seen Sears advertise something new for this task. Cant
> remember the name. May be worth a look on their website.
>
> Bob
>
> On 11/25/2014 11:34 AM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Yeesh.  Sometimes no matter how careful....
>> Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block when at
>> "snug" the head twisted off.  Block was cold, pedestal 55 years old and may
>> have been overtightened before...whatever.
>> Now I need to get it out.  Never had luck with curl-shank easy-outs.
>> Thought of drilling a hole and using a left-hand tap, then a left hand bolt
>> to remove.  Any other thoughts?
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>> New Hampshire
>
>
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com