[TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

[thenicholls at verizon.net]

 Tim,


I just read all responses and have been going through the same thing with my 72 TR6.  Temp gauge always sat at the 6 o'clock position in the middle and never moved.  Not even when it was 100 degrees and I was sitting in traffic.


Got out this spring on the first hot day.  Sitting in traffic I see the gauge start moving toward the upper end.  Never got past 3/4 hot, and when I moved it went back down.


I did a flush myself, although I did not take the drain petock out at the block, mine is the original and if I snap that off, well, lets just say it would not be pretty.


I really thought I had a radiator leak, but after watching for a week or two, it does not leak.  I took the lead off of the temperature sensor, sanded it with some fine paper, and put it back on.


The issue appears to be resolved, after two good flushes, I filled with 50/50 and a half bottle of water wetter and it seems fine.  I am going to continue to monitor, because it really has not been hot enough to know for sure.


I have tried those temperature sensors and they give so many different readings I never feel like it really gives me a definite answer.


The voltage stabilizer is always a possibility, but on my car, neither the temp gauge or the fuel gauge have ever been 1/4 "wonky" (saw that on the Buckeye site).


Please post whatever you find out, and I will update when it gets hot.


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 05/21/14, Tim Gaines<mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:
 
I need ideas. My 1974 TR6 has always run pretty cool, until recently. Now, whether moving or not, the temp gauge goes to about 3/4 or a little above. There is no sign of white smoke at startup or cruising, and there is no milkiness in the oil. The engine runs smoothly, idles normally, and accelerates normally. Here is a list of what I've done, each time checking for improvement with a drive. No luck.

1. Checked the thermostat in water on the stove. It opens at about 160 degrees.
2. Tightened the drive belt (it was a bit loose).
3. Flushed the system with radiator disconnected after removing the drain plug on the engine and poking through the sludge. Water drained clean when I ran it into the thermostat opening, drain plug area, heater hose, and both radiator hoses.
4. Ran water through the radiator both ways and it seemed to move quickly and was clean.
5. Braced the air cowling which had sagged a bit in front of the radiator.
6. Put on a new thermostat.
7. Removed the water pump (3 years old). It looks clean and turns smoothly.
8. Flushed the system again. Water ran clean out of the pump opening before I replaced the pump (with new gasket).
8. Replaced the radiator with a new one. I was desperate to make a fairly long drive Friday, but that now seems out of the question. This buy really hurts!

I'm now at a loss. Can you give me an idea for something else to check?

Thanks,

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC

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