[TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again

Tony Drews tony at tonydrews.com
Thu Aug 28 09:12:43 MDT 2014


Be sure that you used the 2nd lifter from the front to check the 
intake lift (not the front lifter).  "A Friend" once made that mistake...  :)

Tony Drews

At 10:06 AM 8/28/2014, Dave Connitt wrote:
>Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder
>head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not
>reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine
>all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or
>so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking
>sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine
>idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft
>and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves.
>So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and
>bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW.
>I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine
>still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not
>only won't start, but won't even "pop".
>Here is what I have done so far;
>1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from
>BPNW)
>     a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees"
>     b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC.
>     c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe
>is at max. lift
>     d. Install timing chain.
>     e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft 
> and intake
>lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times)
>3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight
>or loose.
>4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at
>TDC on # 1 compression stroke.
>5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after
>TDC.
>6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2)
>7. New spark plug wires
>8. New plugs
>9. There is fuel to the carbs.
>
>
>About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold
>is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas
>smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if
>trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas.
>
>Anybody have an other ideas??
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Connitt
>
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