[TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak

[John & Pat Donnelly]

All PVC valves are not equal. Got a generic one from O'Reily's. The one I
got was a really good one-way valve. Blow one way it flows, the other way is
blocks.
The factory one is sporadic at best. It opens quickly and closes just as
quick.
So I installed the generic. So far no leaks, but I have to put it under load
to see what it does.

Johnnie

> 
> Hi Irv,
> 
> Something's wrong here, and I don't believe that venting to a catch
> tank is
> the proper thing to do. The real issue in my mind is, what's changed?
> and
> how do I validate it?
> 
> My first thought was that the PVC value wasn't working properly, but I
> got a
> new diaphragm from Moss, and then a whole new PCV value, and neither
> was it.
> 
> The leak has been progressively getting worse. I'm now thinking the
> valve
> guides are leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> Johnnie
> 
> '67 TR4A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your crankcase is pressurized and doesn't have enough venting to
> relieve the
> pressure. As a result, the pressure is pushing out the oil.
> On my TR4, I had a vent line from the rocker cover as well as a large
> (1")
> vent hose coming from where the mechanical fuel pump was.
> Ran both of those to my catch tank, and that did the trick.
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Irv Korey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 9:21 PM, John & Pat Donnelly
> <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I've been battling a bad engine oil leak on a TR4A for some time. The
> undercarriage gets wet from the engine to the differential. After
> running
> for 1/2 hr the back of the engine leaves a puddle of, maybe about 1/4
> cup
> worth, besides the half dozen others spots that occur underneath.  The
> oil
> is now coming out of mostly the rear seal after plugging everything
> else.  I
> had to remove the dipstick and plug the opening with felt because that
> would
> push oil out. The distributor pedestal bubbles out little bits where
> the
> tach cable attaches. The valve cover cap has oil coming out of the
> relief
> hole. A few years ago it was small stuff. Now it's embarrassing. I
> believe
> it's internal pressure doing it.
> 
> The PVC valve is new (as was it's predecessor). The valve cover doesn't
> leak. No leaks from the front engine mounting plate or the sump.
> 
> I've had the engine out 3X and .
> 
> 1. Changed the rear seal to the Marx seal. 1st time I tore it by the
> flywheel bolts, 2nd time verified it's intact  as evidenced through the
> 3rd
> timed pulled.
> 
> 2. Changed the piston rings. They're Deves, with openings rotated on
> thirds.
> 
> 3. Redone the epoxy for the rear cam plug. Checked it on the third time
> pulled. Perfect.
> 
> 4. Checked all the rear oil galleys and they are clear, including those
> going through the rear crank bearing housing.
> 
> So I decided this afternoon to do the compression and leak down tests.
> 
> Compression as follows on a hot engine dry/wet (2 squirts)
> 
> 1= 175/185  2 = 175/185  3 = 175/185  4 = 165/185
> 
> My  leak down test consistent of using a Harbor Fright leak down
> tester,
> again on a hot engine. I used a stethoscope to check for sounds.
> 
> Every cylinder was consistent in % of leakage. The only difference was
> that
> #1 had more air was leaking through the valve cover cap, but the % was
> similar to the others.
> 
> Checked the carb openings, they sounded consistent. Checked the dip
> stick.
> Sounded consistent. No leaks in the radiator.
> 
> Maybe it's the HF Tester? The head has not had any work done to it in
> 15
> years, I'm feeling it could it be the culprit? How do I tell?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Johnnie