[TR] Me and my clutch again

[Randall]

> I was told to take the cap off the master and push in the 
> clutch.  The fluid did NOT go down.  What does this mean? 

That the MC appears to be working.  If the level changes at all, it should
rise very slightly as you first start to move the pedal.  Then the valve
between the reservoir and the working piston closes, and the level in the
reservoir stays the same.

>  the other thing I note is when the 
> pedal is not depressed, under the car the rod is not 
> returning all the way.

That's normal for a TR6.  The slave "self adjusts" by keeping the pushrod
out far enough to hold the bearing up against the clutch all the time.  In
fact, there should be a light spring inside the slave cylinder to keep it
there.  I've heard that some slaves come without the spring, so might be
worth checking if it is there.

How is the pivot between the clutch pedal and the MC pushrod?  Any wear here
translates directly to less motion at the slave and the later TR6 didn't
have any travel to spare.  Stags suffer the same ailment and I was able to
(temporarily) repair mine by making an oversize pin from a metric bolt and
reaming the holes to match.  To do it "right", you'll have to remove the
pedal and have the hole repaired by welding.

Does the lever on the gearbox point straight down, or slightly towards the
slave cylinder?  If it points the other direction, you may have a broken
taper pin.

Certainly can't hurt to try bleeding again.  Can you "pump up" the pedal and
get the clutch to release?

Two modifications might help:
1) Replace the old plastic line from MC to SC with a Teflon/SS line.  The
plastic "balloons" under pressure and so loses motion.  Ted Schumacher sells
the Teflon lines, I'm sure others do as well.

2) Replace the .70" bore MC with the .75" bore unit from a TR250 or early
TR6.  The pedal force will be higher, but you'll get more motion at the
slave.

-- Randall