[TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow

Wbeech wbeech at flash.net
Mon Sep 17 08:02:57 MDT 2012


Reading with interest all this about restricting the bypass hose.  What was
the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:18 PM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow

Some years ago on the List, advice was to put a 3/4th inch copper plumbing
pipe end cap in the hose with a 3/8ths hole in the center.  Can't say
whether it works or not, since I never did a control study.  But I can say
that it doesn't "not" work.  

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:20:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

I put a restrictor in the bypass hose - on My TR4 it's an old 1/4 drive
drive socket that fit iinsde the hose just perfectly. On the TR2 it's a
Delrin spacer drilled with 1/4 inch hole.

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it was
full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

As an aside - Without the apron on I can see it was very easy for air to
flow around the radiator vs through it.  -  My new to me TR6 was the same
way - The radiator duct was missing and it was getting hot - it works much
better with a duct in place.

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