[TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers

[Tony Drews]

On the oil, Valvoline VR-1 isn't very expensive.  The non-synthetic 
is locally available for under $5 / qt.  I have to get a store to 
order the synthetic for me, but even that's not too bad.  Compared to 
a Brad Penn or a Redline it's 1/2 to 1/3 of the price, and my (race) 
motors look great on rebuild.

Tony

At 08:35 AM 9/29/2011, Paul Dorsey wrote:
>The reason, in the first place. for me draining a small amount of my oil was
>to see if there was any water maybe in the first amount drained,but, there
>wasn't (and then my shaking hands didn't get the drain plug back into the hole
>quick enough). As correctly guessed by Randall, I had put ZDDP in the engine
>several years ago, but then I forgot about it, which accounts for the green
>color.  My plans now are to concentrate on the restoration such that the car
>will be on the road before the next oil change.  The engine has been babied
>since the professional restoration (albeit, an ugly baby!)  From here on out,
>I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50.  For summer driving, I may use 10w-30.  I
>don't know if Valvoline Racing Oil (VR1) will be within my price range, but I
>would prefer it.  I don't know if extra ZDDP will be required, but, I have
>already purchased this.  I doubt the Valvoline 20w-50 plus a little plastic
>bottle from Moss of ZDDP will be too much ZDDP???  Here is an article which
>relates to ZDDDP:
>
>http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/
>Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a
>balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal
>applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet
>engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity
>grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60.
>
>I bought a new marine battery (opening a new can of worms?) from Walmart for
>only $58.00.  It had a CCA of 625!  Can u guess my biggest concern about
>this?
>
>Then I manually turned the engine over with a wrench.  And with everything up
>to snuff (having drained the radiator fluid and flushed it with pure water) it
>started right up.  I forgot to say that I pulled out each plug and squirted
>WD40 in each cylinder. Even though the engine only ran for like 2 minutes, (it
>had great oil pressure immediatly)  The temp got to 190.
>
>I noticewd one or both carbs leaked fuel below the float chambers.  With a
>small wrench, I didn't want to overtighten their attachment bolts. I wonder
>what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 is??
>But, they seemed snug.  Any suggestions?
>
>
>Thanks greatly, Paul Dorsey
>60 tr3 ts78316
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
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