[TR] clutch bleeding

[Randall]

> What are my odds of bleeding the clutch while the m/c is in 
> the car, can that
> be achieved?

Definitely.  I've never bothered to bench-bleed my TR3/A, as I don't take
the reservoir off with the cylinder. The trick is that, if the MC is totally
dry, you'll probably need to start by bleeding at the MC.  Stuff a rag under
the outlet fitting, then loosen it.  With the reservoir full, it should
bleed itself by gravity; or you can help it along by using a screwdriver to
work the cylinder.  Tighten the fitting again when you get mostly fluid
instead of mostly air (It doesn't have to be absolutely bubble-free, there
just needs to be enough fluid in the cylinder to get it to work some).  Then
bleed at the slave as usual.

Or, what usually works for me is to just pump up the clutch, hold it for a
moment, then release the pedal.  Wait 10 seconds, repeat.  Usually 4 or 5
repetitions will get it close enough to be driveable, then the remainder
will work itself out.

Another approach, which I haven't tried on a clutch yet, is to open the
bleed screw at the slave and let it bleed by gravity.  Worked slick on my
front calipers, though.  It's slower of course, the fluid doesn't run very
fast just by gravity, but it was quicker than waiting for the wife to get
home.

-- Randall