[TR] Hub races are parallel?

[Randall]

> You can
> get a clamping dial indicator at Harbor Freight(Item #93051) 
> for about $30
> that is easy to set-up and use (NFI). 

Here's a photo of my setup.  However, I had to use a much longer rod to
mount the indicator, as the only solid surface on my bench vise was too far
away otherwise.
http://tinyurl.com/6euykj6

I got my dial indicator and base at Enco, who I feel are just slightly above
HF for quality and frequently have a base and indicator set on sale for
under $20:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=392&PARTPG=INLMK32
(P/N 505-1848 in the lower left corner is currently on "web special" for
$16.95)

> I started from the 
> brake rotor and
> worked my way out to the hubs then the rims.

IMO, you should start with the hub first.  If the hub is true but the rotor
is not, then you can work on the hub/rotor joint to improve things.  But if
the hub is off, you need to correct that first before worrying about the
rotor.  I found that even some brand-new aftermarket hubs had significant
runout, as well as most of the original hubs I tried.  

But in at least one case, I discovered that there was a slight 'divot' in
the bearing bore that was causing the problem.  Removing the race and
smoothing out the high area around the divot (no doubt damage from a
previous bearing removal) reduced the hub face runout to almost nothing.

Also worth noting, perhaps, that I found significant balance problems with
many of the brake rotors, including a brand new set that I've had on the
shelf for many years.  I first noticed the issue when I jacked the car up
and one of the front wheels actually turned by itself (!), but testing on
the bench proved that it was the rotor that was out of balance (hub/rotor
would turn under it's own weight; hub alone would not).  I also tried
turning the rotor 180 degrees relative to the hub, and the heavy spot
followed (more or less) the rotor position.

-- Randall