[TR] trunk luggage rack TR3

[Alex]

Here's another alternative to removing the pins without damaging or breaking 
the hinge and this can be done on the car as well.

When I added my luggage rack, I had a small cheap (Chinese made) "c" clamp 
in my tool box. It was red and about 2" long (we have all seen them). I took 
off the foot pad on the screw end. The remaining pointed screw end fit 
perfectly on one side of the hinge pin while the clamps opposing pad secured 
the hinge and offered a counter balance and support to the hinge. Slowly 
applying & tightening down the screw on the "c" clamp pushed the pin out 
easily to the point where needle nose pliers could finish the job.

To use this method you need to drill a hole through the "c" clamps base pad 
so the pin has a means to move as you turn down the screw. There is no shock 
to the hinge body and it works well with the hinge mounted on the car.

A side benefit is now you have a new tool for future hinge work. Total cost 
$1 for 2 c-clamps at any junk store.

As a side note, I did not use the bottom clamps that came with the rack, as 
they looked like a disaster on fresh paint waiting to happen. No side 
effects except the ease of cleaning the boot lid but simply lifting the rack 
up. It rests against the gas cap.

Cautionary note on the rubber pads that come with the rack. They WILL stain 
the paint. (Clear coat)
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] trunk luggage rack TR3


>> I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern
>> replacements (mine
>> are) just strip threads even by looking at them.
>
> When I get new hinges, I remove the studs and carefully run a bottoming 
> tap
> into the threads.  Clean the threads with solvent, then replace the studs
> just slightly more than finger tight with a few drops of high strength
> Loctite.  I've not had any stripped threads since I started following this
> procedure.
>
> But the old hinges were looking pretty tired anyway, so I replaced them as
> well when I installed the luggage rack.
>
>> how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?
>
> I may have made it tougher than it needs to be.  I was worried about
> breaking off the 'ear' of the hinge, so I made a wedge from a flat washer 
> to
> tap into the joint first.  After that, the pins came out easily with a pin
> punch and hammer, using my bench vise as backup.  I don't think doing this
> on the car would be a good idea, though.
>
>> is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin
>> or do i need to
>> drill out the hinge?
>
> As I recall, one side was slightly tight and the other slightly loose.
> Anyway, I didn't drill anything and the new pins went in fine using the 
> vise
> as a press.  But later, when I removed the rack and left the threaded pins
> in the hinges, one of them fell out somewhere on the road.
>
> Some kind person on this list sent me a replacement, but I'm ashamed to
> admit that I have forgotten who it was.
>
> Note that the rubber feet supplied (at least the ones I got from TRF) will
> leave marks in the paint.  I had visible circles after having the rack
> installed for just 2 weeks.  A piece of Saranwrap might help, or I believe
> FT machined new feet from Delrin or something.
>
> -- Randall
>
>