[TR] TR2/3 front suspension rebuild question

Randall tr3driver at ca.rr.com
Wed Sep 2 15:29:26 MDT 2009


> The inner steel washers get a rubber sealing band around them,
> correct? What about the outer paired steel washers - the flat one and
> the collared one. These fit together. Do they get a rubber band
> around them as well?

Yes, both of the metal thrust washers get rubber bands around them.  

FWIW, I find it easier to install the bands onto the washer first, then
smear the washer faces with grease and install the washer and band as an
assembly onto the pin.  Same goes for the nylon washers used on the inner
pivots.

> The red manual mentions a "grease seal". Is this
> the rubber band around these paired washers??

Depends on where you are reading.  It could be either the rubber bands
around the thrust washers (inner or outer, only the outers are 'paired') or
the seal that goes between the vertical link and the trunnion body.

> How important is the manual instruction on seating the splines on the
> washers by tapping the lower control arms "out"?

The splines are 'seated' by tightening the nut until the joint is 'solid'.
BTW, if you are installing new splined washers, you might want to use a
thicker hardware store nut for this step and maybe even give the nut a
little help by tapping with a hammer, as some folks have reported stripping
the castellated nut threads at this step.

Then after both nuts have been tightened, you back them both off by 1.5 to
2.0 flats (so the slots line up with the cotter pin holes) and then tap on
the arms to push the splined washers back out against the nuts.  I won't say
tapping the arms back out is critical, but it seems to me that leaving the
splined washers hard against the thrust washers is going to make the joint
stiff and possibly even cause excess wear; until they move back out on their
own.  It only takes a few light blows with a brass-faced hammer to move
them, so I've always done so.

-- Randall 


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