[TR] Valve spring removal

Todd Richmond twr at frii.com
Tue Jun 9 18:12:27 MDT 2009


Brian,

Very good points.  I've already bought new pistons, liners,
valves, valve guides, timing chain, and a bunch of other
stuff.  It's likely I'll need a new camshaft before I'm 
done as well.  I was just hoping there would be something
I didn't HAVE to buy. :)

I've taken everything over to the machine shop now, and have
asked him to assess the springs, among other things.  We'll 
just have to see.  The good thing is that at least the 
crankshaft appears to be okay.

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L



On Tue, 2009-06-09 at 14:25 +0000, banc8004 at comcast.net wrote:
> Todd,
> 
> 
> Given you have a head with issues -- not you, the car B ;^) -- I would
> strongly suggest that you replace the valve springs, as Randall suggested. If
> everything else about the head is to be gone over - maybe new seats, new
> valves, 3-angle grind etc. it would be an imprudent economy to reuse uncertain
> springs. A set is around $50, IIRC. Moss supplies triple or double exhaust
> valve spring sets.
> 
> 
> Maybe the bathroom scale assessment is feasible. I wouldn't rely on it
> personally, for the sake of $50. With the aggravation of taking the head off
> again to fix a broken spring, well let's just say I'd pay $50 to not have to
> do it again. Even if a spring doesn't break, lazy springs mean lazy valve
> closings. This is probably not a problem at idle, but at 3000 rpm those
> springs are closing each valve 25 times a second. Tired springs would be
> detrimental, wouldn't you think?
> 
> 
> Brian
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