[TR] TR 2/3 Issues pt1

[Randall]

This didn't make it through the list first time; too wordy I guess.  So here
is an abbreviated version for discussion:

> I noticed that the
> through bolt (the one that connects to the solenoid) had a couple of metal
> strips which appear at one time to have been soldered to a slot in the
end.
> The solder is gone and these metal strips are loose.

IMO you are looking at the problem.  Those metal strips are actually flat
copper wire, the ends of the pole windings, and they are what carry all of
the current into the starter motor.

Normally they only twist as much as required to go into the slot.  However,
it's not uncommon for the bolt to come loose and twist the wires when the
outer nut (that holds the cable from the solenoid) is turned.

> Questions - Can or should these metal strips just be re soldered? 

They can, I've done it with a 140 watt soldering gun.  But I don't hold out
a lot of hope that there isn't something else wrong.  The same heat that
vaporized the solder will likely have damaged the winding insulation as
well; copper is a remarkably good conductor of heat and the insulation
between the windings is just lacquer.  And shorted windings are very
difficult to detect without special equipment (a growler).

>   What would have caused the solder to disappear?

Overheating, due to either too much current (ie some other fault in the
motor causing it to draw more current than usual, like shorted windings);
too much continuous operation (the motor should only be operated for 10-15
seconds without a chance to rest and cool); or from a poor connection caused
by the bolt twisting.

>   There are some high torque starters on sale right now - would I be well 
> advised just to get a new one?

That's what I did after a long fight with original starters, and I have
never regretted it.  In fact I plan to move that starter to my project TR3
in a few days.

Randall