[TR] Bleeding new Brake lines

[Randall]

> Without doing anything to the slave cylinder itself?

Right.  Don't touch the slave or even jack the car up.

> > Pump the pedal as high as you can get it, then hold it to the floor 
> > for a count of ten, and release it.  Wait a few seconds, then try 
> > again.
> 
> Pray, what does it mean, pump the pedal as high as you can get it?  

Not sure if I can explain.  But if you've ever driven a car that was low on
hydraulic fluid, this may sound familiar.  With lots of air in the system,
one stroke of the pedal won't move the slave at all.  But if you quickly let
the pedal up and stab it again, you may get a little action.  The point at
which the slave starts to move can be felt through the pedal, as the pedal
force comes up to a peak at the point the slave starts to move, and then
stays relatively constant as the slave pushes against the TOB & pressure
plate.  Repeat the fast release and stab (aka pump) several times, until the
"breakover" point doesn't come any higher.

> Let me guess how this works.  Any air in the system rises to 
> the top of the line, then is forces further out when you 
> release the pedal? 
> It then bubbles itself out the top of the MC?

That's my theory, anyway.  But looking into the reservoir during the process
isn't a particularly good idea, as you're apt to get a faceful.  It makes
quite a fountain, especially if there is any air in the system.

This method is definitely unorthodox, and I don't promise it will always
work.  But so far it has always worked for me (did the 56 TR3 just a few
weeks ago).  If it doesn't work for you, you've not lost much; it only takes
a couple of minutes to try and you haven't even gotten your hands dirty yet.

Oh, one more thing, if the pedal feels like you've hit bottom (suddenly
hard), don't force it any farther.  You've probably reached the end of the
stroke.

Randall