[TR] Block wedges

[Bob Danielson]

I believe they are just wooden wedges that get tapped into place. One change
you might want to consider is the steel block that Marc Goldblatt produces
to replace the alloy one you're trying to install. It totally eliminates the
risk of stripping the threads in the alloy block.
http://www.imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm  BTW.... He used to supply
neoprene wedges to use but has since found that the old wooden ones do a
better job of sealing against leaks. 

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:50 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Block wedges

Can anyone tell me how the #@$ do you fit the cork wedges into the aluminum
block that mounts over the main cap at the front of the TR6 engine?

I have TRF gasket kit, and it contains two small gaskets that seal under the
block, and it also contains "cork" pieces for the ends of the aluminum
block.
The original wedges look like wood and are much harder.
The instructions in the Haynes manual say to hammer them into place, then
cut flush. But I don't think they originally had cork pieces to hammer.

Any tricks to this?

Wayne
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