[TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque

[Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com]

I agree Randall, its not right.

The torque on the bushings seemed much more than spec. I'll try the 
setting you have below - thanks; I'll rethink things if it's still not 
right.
Maybe the bushings are wrong, though they look like Moss 630-130? The nut 
and washer can't pull down directly on the shoulder of the Fulcrum Pin - 
the rubber bushings have shoulders of their own. Tightening the nut/washer 
squeezes the control arm between the bushing shoulders on either side.

I *hope* the set up was just over torqued, while up on stands and the 
correct torque, done the correct way, fixes this. 

I appreciate the help and am hoping I don't have more fundamental issues.

Brian






"Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 
15-Sep-2008 14:26
 
To
Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
cc

Subject
RE: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque







> The tightness was at the upper
> control arm bushings - they were very tight.

Brian:

There is something wrong with this picture.  Those upper bushings are
supposed to be fairly soft rubber, and the nut/washer is supposed to pull
down against a shoulder, thereby limiting the force applied to the rubber.
There should be no way to pull that joint up tight enough to lift the car 
as
you've described, unless some of the parts are wrong or badly damaged.

> I understand the assembly
> procedure is to let the car down on its wheels before fully tightening 
the
> slotted nuts to compress the bushings. What torque must I then tighten 
the
> nuts to? Is it a tighten, then back-off-a-flat process?

I don't have a TR4 manual handy, but it should be the same as the TR3. The
TR3 book gives 26-40 ft-lb, "to suit pin hole".  No need to back off, 
unless
you've overshot the hole.

Of course, if you're installing polyurethane or Nylatron bushings, the
procedure may change.

Randall