[TR] Autumn classic.-- now rear springs

[THOMAS FANSHER]

Ok, I'll wade back in.
My bolt wasn't bent, but frozen solid.
I used a 5/16 stud in the bolt head and used a 15/16 socket with grade 8 
washers to make a puller. By using the stud I saved the threads on the 
bolt...  oh, yeah, I chased the threads in the bolt with  a tap to ensure a 
deep fit.  I heated the bolt and sprayed with PB Blaster and then applied 
some outward pressure on the bolt via the stud.  It took only about 2 days 
of off and on heating and cooling to get the driver's side off. After it 
loosened a little, I would use the castle nut on the threaded end to pull it 
back into the frame tube - working penetrant as far as I could each time. 
After it was moving about a quarter of an inch each way, I used a grinder 
and cut off the threaded end of the bolt, but only AFTER it was moving a 
little. Then more heat and more penetrant, finally after another couple of 
days it broke free and I installed the new springs and silent blocs.
I think I like the idea of drilling the hole, but after the first 12 years 
of life in Myrtle Beach and then 34 more years of just sitting there 
together, the parts had really married each other. It wasn't until the cut 
off bolt had about 1/2 inch until the end that I could rotate it in the 
tube. It was still that tight. I rigged up a pry bar with a 5/16" tapped 
hole to work on the bolt - absolutely no good. I'm glad I had the patience, 
or at least found it to get them out the regular way. On the TR4 there is no 
stone guard to remove... so I guess I'll try the  patient way again.
Good luck and you can win.
Oh, I went through 6 studs and many nuts using them as a puller......
Tom