[TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down

Randall tr3driver at ca.rr.com
Fri Jul 27 17:24:04 MDT 2007


> Thanks for the great advice .. I will try to follow it .. not 
> sure how accurately I can check the measurements. 

A set of feeler gauges is a very basic tool, required for TR ownership, IMO.
As long as there aren't any sudden dips, .001" or .002" curvature in the
head probably won't hurt anything, IMO.  The head gasket should crush enough
to make it up.

> I don't have flat washers .. I only have lock washers.

Augh !  Should be no lockwashers there !  Lockwashers are useful only in
relatively low compression joints; they are never used for head nuts.  The
torque on the nut will keep them from turning ... retorquing is required
because the head gasket continues to crush, not because the nuts back off.

>  Do  you think the "Moss" hardware is better than going to a fastener
outfit .. 
> what grade  would I specify?

Yes, I do think you should buy the hardware from a LBC vendor.  The washers
are a non-standard size; and I've been told that the proper nuts are a
special class of thread.  The originals would not have been graded by the US
system; so even Grade 8 is just a guess.

> I found reference to "smooth face downwards" under heading 17 re the 
> "Low compression kit" ..page 27 of "Service Instruction Manual" 

I was referring to P/N 510528, which is variously titled "Instruction Book"
or "Practical Hints for the Maintenance of the TR3", depending on edition.
It's the TR2-3 equivalent of an owner's manual, delivered with every new
car.  The one I have handy is the 2nd edition, and the comment about the
head gasket is on page 26, step 4 of "Decarbonizing and Valve Grinding".  It
says :

A new gasket must be fitted each time the cylinder head is removed.
The plain side of the gasket must be downwards against the cylinder
block and should be coated on both sides with " WELLSEAL" or
similar non-setting sealing compound.

Randall 
(Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) 






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