[TR] Head Gasket for TR3A - smooth up or down

[terryrs at comcast.net]

Also, Allan, are you re-torquing the head when you're supposed to? I think it's at 2K miles, but forget exactly when and it's too hot and humid (read I am too lazy) to look it up.

Terry

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> > I would appreciate advice and lister's expertise ... but I 
> > don't want to 
> > count the "ups" and "downs" to determine the answer 
> 
> Personally, I don't believe it makes much difference. It would seem that 
> the gasket makers don't think so either, otherwise they wouldn't have 
> redesigned with the extra oil hole, allowing it to be fitted either way. 
> 
> Most likely, IMO, you have something else wrong, besides which way the 
> gasket is fitted. 
> 
> I fought head gasket problems on my TR3 engine for many years, until I 
> finally happened to check liner protrusion on both sides. Turns out they 
> were low only on one side (!) apparently due to a manufacturing defect in 
> the original 1956 cylinder block. The moral is to check every liner on both 
> sides, every time. 
> 
> Some other tips picked up along the way : 
> 
> Take a new hardware store nut and spin it down the studs. Should turn 
> easily all the way to the bottom of the threads. If it binds about 2/3 
> down, the stud is distorted and should be replaced. 
> 
> Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check that the head surface is flat, 
> checking in several different places and directions. I've found that my 
> ordinary carpenter's square is straight enough. You can double-check your 
> straightedge if you find a low spot, by moving the straightedge and seeing 
> if the low spot moves with it. 
> 
> The flat washers under the head nuts are special items and are important; 
> hardware store washers are too soft and the wrong size. If yours are 
> missing or wrong, replace them. I believe they are now available from TRF 
> et al. Same goes for the nuts. I wound up with a set of 'tall' nuts from 
> BFE, but the original spec nuts are fine, IMO. Just don't use hardware 
> store nuts (even grade 8). 
> 
> Get an accurate torque wrench, and follow the sequence given in the owner's 
> manual. I like to go in 3 steps, first all to 40 ftlb, then all 80, then 
> all 105. 
> 
> BTW, the owner's manual specifies that the head gasket should be installed 
> smooth side down. 
> 
> Randall 
> (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows)