[TR] More questions?

[Randall]

> 1. Is there ever a problem created by dissassembling the oil 
> pressure line on
> a TR3?

I am going to respectfully disagree with Bob, and say that it's not
necessary (IMO) to anneal those copper washers.  I've reused mine many times
without annealing, and they still seal just fine.  His points about putting
them in the right way (along with the special nut on top) are good, though.

Note that there is supposed to be a leather sealing washer between the end
of the line and the gauge.

> 2. Will dripping a drop of hot solder onto a hot bullet 
> connector make it into
> a good connector?  Or will solder not really stick to these 
> 'galvinized' pieces.

As already stated, just dripping solder onto something is not going to help.
However, making a good solder joint will definitely help.

Making a good solder joint is a skill to be learned.  Not as difficult (IMO)
as welding, but it does take some practice and patience to make a good
solder joint.  No room here for a full course, but basically you need both
surfaces scrupulously clean, then heated to the melting point of solder (or
just slightly above), a little bit of non-acid flux applied (or better use
"rosin-core" solder) and then the solder applied.  Properly done, the solder
bonds to the surfaces and flows over them.  Then the joint must be held
totally still while the solder cools and solidifies.  Proper choice of
solder is important too, don't try to use plumbing or body solder.  I mostly
use a Weller "soldering gun", which IMO is much easier to use than those
cheap non-regulated electric soldering irons.  A regulated soldering iron
would be better yet, but they are kind of expensive and I don't like having
to wait for them to warm up (although the good ones do get hot pretty
quick).

Google for "how to solder wires", you'll get lots of hits with detailed
instructions.  Here's two :
http://www.ehow.com/how_376_solder-wires.html
http://www.mediacollege.com/misc/solder/

> 3. Where can I tie-into the console for 'non-switched device' 
> such as an electric fan?

If you are talking about an electric radiator fan, they draw quite a bit of
current.  However, I feel you will want it on the load side of the ammeter,
so you can see if the fan is drawing current from the battery or not.  And,
if you keep the stock generator, also on the load side of the control box so
it can attempt to compensate for the extra load.  The horn fuse is on the
battery side of the ammeter, so I would not suggest using it.  On my TR3A, I
created a new tie point in the brown/blue wire under the hood (where it
joined with the wire to my high-output alternator), then used a separate
fusible link in the wire to the electric fan.  Although not what I used,
this is a good way to make a tie point :
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml

Randall


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