[Tigers] Wheels, Lugs and Paint...

[Larry Mayfield]

You know I have been a member of CAT continuously since 1974 and off and on
between 1967 and 1974. Lotta years and subjects under the bridges.. I
believe some of ya'll are CAT members as well and I need some assistance
with the forum on the CAT web site.  I logged on using my official user name
and pass word, updated just last year but I will be danged if I can where
and how to post anything to any of the forum areas. Any help out there?

 

This is just me thinking out loud now. Your, MMV, lol. And everything is
subject to an 80 year old's fogy memory.  I still have my original steel
wheels from when I purchased the car, admittedly used in Jan 1967 with 11K
miles on it, and the wheels are what was on the car at that time. Oh< my
Tiger is a MK I with last four numbers being 1136.  So, I am guessing that
they are OEM and specific to this car.  They are of course the 13 inch, 4
lug wheels that use 7/16th inch  studs and tapered shoulder nuts to keep
them on the car.  I had and had a notion that the wheels are NOT lug
centric, but hub centric, to keeping them centered on the hubs. I say that
because the aftermarket wheels i.e. LAT 70 and others,  use the hubs to
center the wheels since the lugs are straight shanked nuts without taper.
Hub centric is a n brainer. The wheel is made to fit the hub and the hub is
a machined part made to assure that the wheel is centered.  The tapered lugs
have a couple of purposes I suppose, one is that the lug centers the wheel
mounting hole on the studs and that the tapes is linger than a flat cut nut
giving more gripping area and requiring more force to remove it due to metal
to metal friction as the clamping force applied ty the torque wrench  being
used by the installer.  Another think that comes to mind for me anyway, is
that the studs and nuts are a bit finer thread that the regular coarse
thread s and they are "fine threads". With a taper, a single turn of the nut
to loosen, will move the nut off the wheel a distance of  the sine of the
taper angle times the thread pitch distance. And for sure no paint on the
faying surfaces.  The twist of the nut against the paint will most likely on
the first torque down destroy that thin paint layer and it should be
retorques a bit after it has run down the road.   Tomorrow I will be
removing the OEM beauty rings, hub caps, and wheels from my storage area and
moving them to another storage location in my shop so I will have ample time
to examine them since I have not looked at them since I put the LAT 70 ones
on my car in 1968.  Right now, I am thinking, and I may be wrong, but, the
back side of my wheel are same color as the front side and not black or any
other color.   When I am done with moving parts around, I will post any new
info I glean  to help muddy the water some more. 

 

In any case, someone with an idea on how to post to the cat forums, lemme
know. 

 

Drmayf

Aka Larry

TWFS: 204.913 mph flying mile on the salt

And 210.779 mph out the back door. 

 

The dedicated race Car, not my Tiger,  has been sold to another LSR racer of
sorts. 

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