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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72" style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>You know I have been a member of CAT continuously since 1974 and off and on between 1967 and 1974. Lotta years and subjects under the bridges.. I believe some of ya’ll are CAT members as well and I need some assistance with the forum on the CAT web site. I logged on using my official user name and pass word, updated just last year but I will be danged if I can where and how to post anything to any of the forum areas. Any help out there?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>This is just me thinking out loud now. Your, MMV, lol. And everything is subject to an 80 year old’s fogy memory. I still have my original steel wheels from when I purchased the car, admittedly used in Jan 1967 with 11K miles on it, and the wheels are what was on the car at that time. Oh< my Tiger is a MK I with last four numbers being 1136. So, I am guessing that they are OEM and specific to this car. They are of course the 13 inch, 4 lug wheels that use 7/16<sup>th</sup> inch studs and tapered shoulder nuts to keep them on the car. I had and had a notion that the wheels are NOT lug centric, but hub centric, to keeping them centered on the hubs. I say that because the aftermarket wheels i.e. LAT 70 and others, use the hubs to center the wheels since the lugs are straight shanked nuts without taper. Hub centric is a n brainer. The wheel is made to fit the hub and the hub is a machined part made to assure that the wheel is centered. The tapered lugs have a couple of purposes I suppose, one is that the lug centers the wheel mounting hole on the studs and that the tapes is linger than a flat cut nut giving more gripping area and requiring more force to remove it due to metal to metal friction as the clamping force applied ty the torque wrench being used by the installer. Another think that comes to mind for me anyway, is that the studs and nuts are a bit finer thread that the regular coarse thread s and they are “fine threads”. With a taper, a single turn of the nut to loosen, will move the nut off the wheel a distance of the sine of the taper angle times the thread pitch distance. And for sure no paint on the faying surfaces. The twist of the nut against the paint will most likely on the first torque down destroy that thin paint layer and it should be retorques a bit after it has run down the road. Tomorrow I will be removing the OEM beauty rings, hub caps, and wheels from my storage area and moving them to another storage location in my shop so I will have ample time to examine them since I have not looked at them since I put the LAT 70 ones on my car in 1968. Right now, I am thinking, and I may be wrong, but, the back side of my wheel are same color as the front side and not black or any other color. When I am done with moving parts around, I will post any new info I glean to help muddy the water some more. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>In any case, someone with an idea on how to post to the cat forums, lemme know… <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Drmayf<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Aka Larry<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>TWFS: 204.913 mph flying mile on the salt<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>And 210.779 mph out the back door. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The dedicated race Car, not my Tiger, has been sold to another LSR racer of sorts. <o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>