[Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question

[Joe Brown]

I already took that pin out. This is my first shot at rebuilding an engine
and I'm afraid to just try and force something together.  I finally gave
FelPro a call and the guy there verified that there is an interference fit
and the two halves of the seal will appear to be too long but they should
crush down into the grooves when the cap bolts are torqued down.  So I'm
keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks,
Joe

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 10:48 AM Tom Hall via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net
wrote:

> On 1/22/2019 2:55 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers wrote:
>
> Here is a question for you guys that are old hands at rebuilding engines.
> I am putting my original 260 back together after it came back from the
> machine shop and I am struggling a little bit with the two-piece rear main
> seal that came with my FelPro gasket set.  The instructions say to insert
> one half of the seal into the block with about 3/8" sticking up on one
> side. This should result in the other side being about 3/8" below the edge
> of the block.  The other half goes into the rear main cap with the same
> offset so that it mates up with the half that is in the block.
>
> My problem is that the two halves of the seal seem to be too long.  If I
> insert one half so that 3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2"
> down on the other side.  So I can't get the rear main cap to seat
> correctly.  Is it common to have to trim the two halves so that they will
> mate correctly?  Or should I just go buy another seal and hope it works
> better?  (Thankfully I live just a few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)
>
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
>
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>  Joe,
>
> If your 260 still had a "rope" style rear seal, you should find a small
> sharp pin pressed into the seal groove.  This pin held the "rope" so that
> it couldn't turn in it's groove.  It would also keep your new rubber "lip"
> seal from seating down into the groove, resulting in the seal appearing to
> be too long.  If I remember correctly, this pin is in the main cap and
> should be just visable in the groove for the pan gasket.  You drive it out
> with a small diameter drift punch.
>
> Your best solution would have been to have the machine shop bore the block
> and rear cap for a later one piece seal, but I think you are too far down
> the road to do this now.
>
> --
> Tom Hall
> ModTiger Engineering LLC
> 5712 San Luis Court
> Pleasanton, CA 94566modtiger at comcast.net
> (925)462-3876www.tigerengineering.net
>
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