<div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto">I already took that pin out. This is my first shot at rebuilding an engine and I'm afraid to just try and force something together. I finally gave FelPro a call and the guy there verified that there is an interference fit and the two halves of the seal will appear to be too long but they should crush down into the grooves when the cap bolts are torqued down. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Joe </div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 10:48 AM Tom Hall via Tigers <<a href="mailto:tigers@autox.team.net" target="_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div class="gmail-m_3626617638071388113m_5960324314192894567moz-cite-prefix">On 1/22/2019 2:55 PM, Joe Brown via
Tigers wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Here is a question for you guys that are old hands
at rebuilding engines. I am putting my original 260 back
together after it came back from the machine shop and I am
struggling a little bit with the two-piece rear main seal that
came with my FelPro gasket set. The instructions say to insert
one half of the seal into the block with about 3/8" sticking up
on one side. This should result in the other side being about
3/8" below the edge of the block. The other half goes into the
rear main cap with the same offset so that it mates up with the
half that is in the block.
<div><br>
</div>
<div style="text-align:right">My problem is that the two halves
of the seal seem to be too long. If I insert one half so that
3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2" down on the
other side. So I can't get the rear main cap to seat
correctly. Is it common to have to trim the two halves so
that they will mate correctly? Or should I just go buy
another seal and hope it works better? (Thankfully I live
just a few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Joe Brown</div>
</div>
<br>
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</blockquote>
<p>Joe, <br>
</p>
<p>If your 260 still had a "rope" style rear seal, you should find a
small sharp pin pressed into the seal groove. This pin held the
"rope" so that it couldn't turn in it's groove. It would also
keep your new rubber "lip" seal from seating down into the groove,
resulting in the seal appearing to be too long. If I remember
correctly, this pin is in the main cap and should be just visable
in the groove for the pan gasket. You drive it out with a small
diameter drift punch. <br>
</p>
<p>Your best solution would have been to have the machine shop bore
the block and rear cap for a later one piece seal, but I think you
are too far down the road to do this now.<br>
</p>
<pre class="gmail-m_3626617638071388113m_5960324314192894567moz-signature" cols="72">--
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
5712 San Luis Court
Pleasanton, CA 94566
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(925)462-3876
<a class="gmail-m_3626617638071388113m_5960324314192894567moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.tigerengineering.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.tigerengineering.net</a> </pre>
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