[Tigers] Dash Pieces

Tue Sep 20 04:21:49 MDT 2016

Voltage stabilizer correctly wired??

On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 11:02 PM, Stu via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> The sensors work backwards to what you are thinking.  High temps or high
> fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances, therefore more current to
> heat the heater that bends the bimetal strip that moves the pointer.  If
> there was a higher resistance in the path, that would produce a lower gauge
> reading.  A high reading indicates that there is a too low resistance
> somewhere, a short or something.  Are you sure you have the right temp
> sensor?
>
> If your regulator is the stock type, it should be switching at a low
> frequency, several times a second, bouncing the pointer of an analog meter
> around. The on/off ratio causes the voltage, that's either 12V or 0, to
> average out to 10V.
>
> Stu
>
> On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:09 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <
> tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when
>> acquired. Today I declared success!  I started the morning will all the
>> gauges except the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why is
>> the OP gauge such a beast to remove? I digress.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to
>> be connected that were not.  I had been using one that is just behind the
>> Fuel Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the
>> same end as the daisy chained ground wires.  I traced the real temp ground
>> to the bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The
>> daisy wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab’d
>> a new one.  I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body
>> ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I
>> found that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well.
>> Tightened it up.  I took all the light switches out and examined them. All
>> in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel lights.
>> All lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I have
>> fully functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters back
>> into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I
>> removed the driver’s seat and the steering wheel so that I could at least
>> get under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm.
>>
>>
>>
>> I may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads
>> high when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at
>> the sensor.   Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the
>> instrument voltage regulator.  Fuel level seem about right for what I put
>> in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the
>> difference in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one.
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good
>> laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figure
>> this out.  I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download
>> onto my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list.
>>
>>
>>
>> Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch
>> cylinders and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.
>> Fuel [ump will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5
>> psig.  And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it is
>> full of gunk.  I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (PO
>> of the valve covers had them sand blasted).  I have the Tiger oil pan as
>> well.  And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated.
>> Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be replaced
>> by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pin stripe
>> around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I need to
>> mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough,
>> New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E’bock shocks.
>> Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac.  And a box stock (nearly_
>> 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same
>> internal as delivered.  But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I used in
>> the 60’s and a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could put in. Both
>> require race gas though.  The 289 needs to be refreshed a lot. Other one
>> ins not broken in as yet.  And if challenged enough I could put together
>> another 302 motor with my Salt car pieces including large HP 72 turbo for a
>> LOT of hp and tq.  Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old guy…
>>
>>
>>
>> mayf
>>
>> and again, many thanks to the list!
>>
>> _________________________
>> drmayf
>> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
>> 204.913 mph flying mile
>> 210.779 mph exit (not top)  speed
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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