[Tigers] Dash Pieces

Mon Sep 19 21:02:14 MDT 2016

The sensors work backwards to what you are thinking.  High temps or high
fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances, therefore more current to
heat the heater that bends the bimetal strip that moves the pointer.  If
there was a higher resistance in the path, that would produce a lower gauge
reading.  A high reading indicates that there is a too low resistance
somewhere, a short or something.  Are you sure you have the right temp
sensor?

If your regulator is the stock type, it should be switching at a low
frequency, several times a second, bouncing the pointer of an analog meter
around. The on/off ratio causes the voltage, that's either 12V or 0, to
average out to 10V.

Stu

On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:09 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when acquired.
> Today I declared success!  I started the morning will all the gauges except
> the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why is the OP gauge
> such a beast to remove? I digress.
>
>
>
> I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to be
> connected that were not.  I had been using one that is just behind the Fuel
> Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the same
> end as the daisy chained ground wires.  I traced the real temp ground to
> the bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The
> daisy wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab’d
> a new one.  I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body
> ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I
> found that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well.
> Tightened it up.  I took all the light switches out and examined them. All
> in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel lights.
> All lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I have
> fully functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters back
> into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I
> removed the driver’s seat and the steering wheel so that I could at least
> get under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm.
>
>
>
> I may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads
> high when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at
> the sensor.   Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the
> instrument voltage regulator.  Fuel level seem about right for what I put
> in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the
> difference in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good
> laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figure
> this out.  I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download
> onto my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list.
>
>
>
> Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch
> cylinders and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.
> Fuel [ump will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5
> psig.  And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it is
> full of gunk.  I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (PO
> of the valve covers had them sand blasted).  I have the Tiger oil pan as
> well.  And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated.
> Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be replaced
> by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pin stripe
> around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I need to
> mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough,
> New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E’bock shocks.
> Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac.  And a box stock (nearly_
> 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same
> internal as delivered.  But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I used in
> the 60’s and a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could put in. Both
> require race gas though.  The 289 needs to be refreshed a lot. Other one
> ins not broken in as yet.  And if challenged enough I could put together
> another 302 motor with my Salt car pieces including large HP 72 turbo for a
> LOT of hp and tq.  Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old guy…
>
>
>
> mayf
>
> and again, many thanks to the list!
>
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top)  speed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sabre2tgr@
> gmail.com
>
>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20160919/e7f5bbc8/attachment-0001.html>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: image001.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 959 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20160919/e7f5bbc8/attachment-0001.jpg>